I have a TD5 D2 with 170k on it. I believe I have a head gasket leak ( too much pressure in the coolant ).
Is this normal for this model (1999) ?
If so why and what is the best fix ?
IE does the head get replaced or machined or welded and machined or reco'ed
Just been doing a ring around the work shops
Some say machine the head some don't
Some want to put steel dowels in to replace the plastic ones and some don't
some want to weld the head and one wants to sell me a second hand motor !
Find out what the problem is first.LR's like all new vehicles run a bit of pressure in the cooling system so I would get checks done first before worrying to much about a new head. Pat
I think I will take it to the place that has the ability and equipment to check it out thoroughly.
What concerns me is the different approaches I have encountered for the same problem.
I am a little cautious about outcomes now after my current servicing work shop has let me down.
One trap that alot of tradesmen fall into is that there may be a common problem in some part and they just assume that replacing that part will fix the problem and it's job done instead of looking and doing the required tests as it may just be covering a worse or hopefully easier problem. Pat
it took me ages to confirm it was the head gasket using a gas test method to test for combustion gas in the coolant would only show up if I drove it hard then did the test drove for around 6 months till I confirmed it was the head gasket and get the parts together before doing it myself.
disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.
In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message
NO machining head.
NO welding head.
any of that means that the head needs to have its extra gucchi face hardening redone. Weve got a place on base that can do it but you do not want to know about the price. it is almost cheaper to buy a new head and build it up (IT would be for me as I can do all my own head assembly work) and then there is no guarentee that the initial machining will still be inspec after the process.
There are some places that can do it and do it well but they are going to be few and far between and will more than likely charge the earth to do it.
The choice of dowels is much of a muchness. I prefer the steel ones but theres no reason not to use the plastic ones. its the same logic as to why I prefer a steel brush bar as opposed to the new plastic ones.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
If you need a new head price one from the UK before you buy one here.There can be a big saving. Pat
Mine is in getting done now, $2000 if the head is OK or $4500 if the head is knackered (ie) soft.
Mine has 168,000ks, i put mine down to not using the correct coolent, 0AT and not checking the coolent on an inland trip, the car overheated, the other occasion the car overheated was when i blew a top radiator hose.
Baz.
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
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