Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: FITTING DRIVING LIGHTS

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Logan ( Brisbane)
    Posts
    1,741
    Total Downloaded
    0

    FITTING DRIVING LIGHTS

    Can some bright spark please help me I am trying to wire a set of driving lights into ma Toyota Landcruiser for a mate with out much success, have relay fitted as per instructions , tapped into high beam circuit . works when attached to battery but can not get them to work as per instructions

    Hodgo

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,656
    Total Downloaded
    0
    What's not working?

    Assuming 4 pin relay, wire:

    Pin 30 to +ve battery via a fuse.
    Pin 87 to the lights, and the other side of the lights to earth (or back to the battery -ve if you're worried about finding a good ground).
    Pin 85 of the relay to earth (Easiest to do this via the mouting screw if the relay is on a metal wing or similar)
    Pin 86 to the high beam feed on the lights or fusebox, via a dash switch if you don't want them on with high beam all the time.

    What have you done different?
    Jeff

    1994 300TDi Defender
    2010 TDV8 RRS

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kyabram, VIC 3620
    Posts
    2,544
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Right on a relay you have two seperate sections - the activation terminals and the switching terminals - blown if I can remember the numbers - but


    Signal from high beam goes to coil (activation) terminal - the opposite goes to earth.

    Live from the battery goes (via fuse) to the dead side of the switch terminals - and then from the live side of the switch terminals run to the driving lamps - then from the lamps to earth

    I'll do a basic sketch and post it

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kyabram, VIC 3620
    Posts
    2,544
    Total Downloaded
    0
    very basic sketch
    Last edited by ladas; 22nd October 2008 at 09:48 PM.

  5. #5
    mcrover Guest
    On a landcruiser you have to earth the relay through the headlight circuit rather than just to ground.

    Has something to do with the grounding in the engine bay.

    So basically say on an 80 series.....

    85 to high beam positive feed
    86 to headlight negative feed
    87 to positive feed + Fuse + Relay(to protect switch contacts) + Switch
    30 to Driving lights positive

    Driving light negative goes to battery not to body.

    Other cars such as Mitsubishi Tritons and Pajero's are the same.

    This works Ive just recently done a set on an 80 series.

    If you mount it all at the battery tray on the left side it is all easilly accessable to the left headlight wiring and you only have to run a wire feed to the switch.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Aah,Toyotas, don't they mostly switch earth on their lamps?? I had this problem when wiring driving lamps to a toyota coaster bus once. Toyotas idea was to reduce the contact wear in the switches by switching the earth side. This means that they are effectively wired in reverse to the LR. The switch etc has constant supply, and earth is the switching side.


    Confusing isn't it, but when you see it / actually wire it it makes sense. I think.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    McRover has it!!!

    thanks for the info, I had forgotten the wiring sequence, I'll actually write it down this time!!

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #8
    mcrover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Aah,Toyotas, don't they mostly switch earth on their lamps?? I had this problem when wiring driving lamps to a toyota coaster bus once. Toyotas idea was to reduce the contact wear in the switches by switching the earth side. This means that they are effectively wired in reverse to the LR. The switch etc has constant supply, and earth is the switching side.


    Confusing isn't it, but when you see it / actually wire it it makes sense. I think.

    JC

    There you go, thats the reason, if you wire it how I posted you wont have a problem.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kyabram, VIC 3620
    Posts
    2,544
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Aah,Toyotas, don't they mostly switch earth on their lamps?? I had this problem when wiring driving lamps to a toyota coaster bus once. Toyotas idea was to reduce the contact wear in the switches by switching the earth side. This means that they are effectively wired in reverse to the LR. The switch etc has constant supply, and earth is the switching side.


    Confusing isn't it, but when you see it / actually wire it it makes sense. I think.

    JC
    If that is the case then the attached would apply - well done Justin
    Last edited by ladas; 22nd October 2008 at 09:48 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    See, We aim to please here at AULRO.

    Even the Toyota owners get tech help here!!

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!