Thread: Salisbury diff and ARB locker

I'm guessing by the views on this one that no-one's done this job before!!!

I'm just going to go back to basics and install the bearings with no shims and set it up from scratch the old fashioned way!

Cheers
Chris

Its been many moons since ive played with a sals tho there all the same method and yep the size you stated sounds big but if the shimming isent corect you wont get a proper contact of CW&P resulting in problems easy way would be to drop in the center without the CW and then mesure how much shimm will be needed to fill the void between the housing and center then you will know how much shimm you will need intotal then refit the CW and get the contact patch right by adding the shims in may be a bit of buggering round tho the end result should last a long time

Hi Chris,

I have fitted a maxi-drive, but as the same (modified) centre is reused, youi just refit using the same shims. Personally I would set everything up from scratch for an ARB, to make sure it is spot on, but that is just me.

I would contact Keith (username: Revor). He has set up heaps, so he would probably be the best person to ask.

Found out the hard way today - the ARB RD20 diff is 6mm longer than the Salisbury that came out.

Got me stuffed how that can be, but now I'm having to do some serious adjusting. I placed it in and the damn thing wouldn't come back out, had me scratching my head trying to work out what was going on.
I'm grabbing the spreader tomorrow to grab it out - looks like I pretty much won't be using any shims at all to set it up with.

When I placed it in, the pinion and crown wheel was pretty much locked up. I had a 2.4mm shim pack on the crown wheel side which was what the measurements came up with - guess I mucked it up somewhere (probably converting thou" to mm). Took some serious pressure to get it to turn.

Still, I will have it sorted in the morning hopefully and up and running tomorrow arvo all going well.

Cheers
Chris

as a tip for future work..

when you rebuild a diff thats running nicely(say your putting in an ARB or changing the side gears) and reuse the crown wheel and pinion make a habit of bluing 1/3rd of the teeth on the crown wheel then walking that past the pinion and letting the pinion imprint the blue onto the "clean" teeth of the diff.

take a picture of the transfered contact patch and when you set it up redo the bluing, if you dont get the contact patch looking exactly the same adjust the diff till you do...

Ive seen it done where resetting the diff to spec has put the contact patch out and the diff howls

Yep - found that out the hard way today. Been kicking myself since..........

Should have known better - I can just hear a few instructors from Latchford Bks now...........

Cheers
Chris

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

as a tip for future work..

when you rebuild a diff thats running nicely(say your putting in an ARB or changing the side gears) and reuse the crown wheel and pinion make a habit of bluing 1/3rd of the teeth on the crown wheel then walking that past the pinion and letting the pinion imprint the blue onto the "clean" teeth of the diff.

take a picture of the transfered contact patch and when you set it up redo the bluing, if you dont get the contact patch looking exactly the same adjust the diff till you do...

Ive seen it done where resetting the diff to spec has put the contact patch out and the diff howls

Seeing as your not moveing the pinion height, simply takeing a backlash measurement and assembleing the same will suffice

Originally Posted by rovercare

Seeing as your not moveing the pinion height, simply takeing a backlash measurement and assembleing the same will suffice

Yup, same.... except with the old 5 fingered feeler gauge.