I am not sure if they use a valve to open/close the hot water supply - check that first.
The other thing, even if the valve is open the thing could be airlocked - thus no heat - easy way to test if you can get your hand onto the heater matrix - ooops sorry you did say Defender ???
Have a ferret under the bonnet - chase the heater hoses - from the firewall back towards the engine - if there is a valve you will find it.
With the engine at normal running temp feel the heater hoses just where they enter/leave the firewall if they are both hot then there is a good chance water is getting through - if one is hot and the other just warm or cold - it's either an airlock or blocked with ****.
If its an airlock trace the longest hose from the firewall and disconnect - plugging the bit you have disconnected it from to stop loosing water - with the aid of an assistant or a bit of string - get that hose as high as you can.
Then disconnect the other hose - again plugging the opening where you disconnected it from - and again get it up as high as possible -
First flush it out with fresh water from a hose (not too high pressure) you may want to collect the first bits into a bucket to see how mucky it is/isn't.
then pour water/coolant mix into the highest hose until it starts to weep out of the lowest host - then as careful as you can without loosing too much coolant reconnect the lower hose to the original position.
Then add more water to the other hose till full, then carefully reconnect to the original position trying not to loose too much water.
Then bleed the full system - on the defender I think (could be wrong) that there is a bleed screw on the thermostat housing .
That is of course it is an air lock. The flush may have done the trick
As to where the controls should be to get heat - sorry haven't a clue - I drive a namby pamby Disco with a digital temp setting![]()


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