Bend the bracket![]()
I have a small amount of play in the passenger side swivel housing and thought I would remove a shim to reduce the play in case it leads to more serious wear.
No problem, I thought. I had done it a couple of times on the Series III. I thought the Defender would be similar.
I've read all the references to swivel housing that I can find, including this very detailed one. Mysteries of the swivel but I can't find the answer to a fairly simple question.
The CD (not Rave, the other one) doesn't help.
I can't get a spanner to fit properly on the back bolt holding the top pin.
Someone has cleverly designed it so that the brake line stops me getting a socket on it.
The bracket which supports the brake line at the junction of the steel and flexible pies also stops me getting my ring spanner further down than just the top of the head.
An open ender just isn't up to the job as far as I can see.
I'm not keen to round off the head by trying to use an inappropriate tool.
My question is in two parts.
Do I have to remove the brake line to get a socket on?
Or if I get a better ring spanner with a thinner ring, will it fit further down on the head and do the job?
1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.
Bend the bracket![]()
1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.
I'd be inclined to give the bracket a twist and get in there with a 3/8 drive socket
1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.
Brake line is quite malleuable, just be sure to thumb/palm it so as not to kink it, its hard to get an appreciation of how easy to form it, without actual playing with it prior
If all else fails, drop the line, then reverse bleed once back together, by pushing the pads/piston back into the caliper and your done
I'd still be bending it to get in there but![]()
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