Thread: Removing pistons with block still in the vehicle?

I have a 3.9 short motor that has a leaky liner. If you wanted a core to get refurbished we could work something out.
BTW im in Perth

cheers
Luke

Standard liners are SUPPOSED to have 360 register at the bottom. they were put in hot blocks to equalise the expansion forces. When they cooled a lot of them lifted as they contracted. If a shop put cold liners in a cold block they would be very loose when heated.
The real answer is to have stepped liners, at the top so that the gasket contacts the liner not the head, plus a sealant behind the liner to stop water flowing down.
I was surprised to talk to a reconditioner at the Gold Coast who planned to put cold liners in a P76 block. Recipe for problems I believe. I was very surprised to find he had no knowledge of the stepped liners, which are pretty common now. See if your guy knows about them.
Regards Philip A

I had new liners put in my 3.5 very professionally by Watmor engines in Woodbridge (Midland) about 4 years ago - did an excellent job.

I made absolutely certain before they started that they knew what they were doing with the whole heated block / chilled liners thing and had done it before. Apparently there are many engine shops who do NOT get it exactly right with the Rover motor.

Watmor put Holden liners in (with a lip) and Holden pistons which was cost-effective and gave me a 3.8. As it happens my conrods had already been modified for Holden pistons by a previous owner.

I did end up with spare rings (only available in sets of 6!) but otherwise all good.

Chris

Thanks Philip,

To be abolutely clear that we are talking the same thing, these guys bore out the old liners, and then the block, but leave a step in the ali block at the bottom which the new liners sit on. The new liners are then machined flush with the top of the block and held in place by the fire ring on the gasket (at least thats what I assume). I asked about top liners and they said they prefer to do it this way. These guys do a fair bit of rover stuff too, they do all Rovatech Jordan's work (kevin falconbridge). Having said all that - I think your right and top hat lines would be the best solution.

Well that is the way the put them in originally , and you can see what happens. They are put in chilled in a hot block and originally sit on a step. BUToften they move as the block cools, then they machine them and there is a small gap at the bottom.
The fire ring of the gasket does NOT contact the top of a normal liner, and that is how the problem starts.The liner can move up and down between the head and block.
This assumes an overheat , which is usually the cause of the subsequent movement in a 3.5,as the hotter the engine the looser the liner, as alloy expands quicker than steel.
Regards Philip A

By the way, re the 3.9. If one sleeve is loose they all have to be replaced.
Regards Philip A

Just to add more to this I have had 3 blocks now done by M & D Engineering The last one I had done now has close to 400k on it also with holden flat tops but with 60thou composite head gaskets as the head and block had been shaved before and is still going Ihave sold that rangie on. I have another 3.9 in my spare bedroom (yes wife knows) which started life as a 3.5 and was done by M & D up to 3.9 this time using gen 3.9 pistons. As my current Rangie has done 362k and is still smooth but lacking in power I will be doing this swap soon..well I have been waiting now 3 years with this one in my bedroom. Problem is it still goes well and I am reluctant to do it
Taz if I were you I would find another GOOD block and have all that done ready to go in by whoever u choose to recon it and then it should only take you a weekend to do the swap. Or find a running 3.9 from ebay or wherever.
Brad

Originally Posted by Reads90

mm i have taken the sump off no worries when ever i have done it. Admit bit of a twist and turn but will come out fine with out jack anything or removing stuff

agreed but its easier with out the front axle there at all and getting in there with the torque wrench is soo much easier without the bloody axle housing messing up your swing or the wheels taking up the space you want to be laying on on the creeper and its only what 14-15 bolts or so and it all comes out. Ron allueded to ring compressors and the like...

Nice to have not a need to have, a sheet of shimming steel and a large hose clamp works just as well and if you reassemble with 85/140 and have strong fingers you can work the pots down one ring at a time...