Thread: Defender Hub Assembly

no special tool needed, i just adjust wheel bearing as i always have and have had no problems to date

i'm guessing you have a hub nut spanner?

If the bearings are either too tight or too loose, bearing failure may result, and if too loose pad knockback may result in loss of brake pedal, but in reality there is an acceptable range of tightness. I assume that what you don't have is a dial gauge.

The bearings should be from just starting to drag very slightly to perceptible movement at the tyre tread, after the locknut is tightened. The locking washer should always be replaced.

If there is enough movement to see at the tread, it is too loose, and if there is a perceptible rise in hub temperature after a drive of a couple of kilometres without using the brakes, it is too tight.

John

Earlier bearings were adjusted with the help of a dial gauge. In later workshop manuals (same hubs), LR changed to recommending a torque wrench. A much easier method.

13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
Back off adjusting nut 90°. Tighten to 4 Nm.
This will give the required hub end float of 0,010mm

Originally Posted by p38arover

Earlier bearings were adjusted with the help of a dial gauge. In later workshop manuals (same hubs), LR changed to recommending a torque wrench. A much easier method.

My hub nut socket has two holes on side to fit a bar/screwdriver into and turn but no easy way to connect a torque wrench. Any ideas on how to torque it up using these types of hub nut sockets?

Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha

My hub nut socket has tow holes to fit a bar into and turn but no easy way to connect a torque wrench. Any ideas on how to torque it up using these types of hub nut sockets?

The simplest way is to get hold of a cheap socket that will just fit inside the tube spanner, and cut a slot in it with an angle grinder to accommodate the bar in the tube spanner. If you have access to welding, you could weld it to the tube spanner, but this is not necessary.

John

Stick a piece of rod or a big screwdriver through it, measure out 300mm from the centre, convert the NM to foot pounds or Kgs, hook a spring balance like you weigh fish with on at the 300mm mark and away you go!
Rocket.

Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha

My hub nut socket has two holes on side to fit a bar/screwdriver into and turn but no easy way to connect a torque wrench. Any ideas on how to torque it up using these types of hub nut sockets?

My socket set has a straight bar with a 1/2 inch socket drive which slides along the bar (Sidchrome). You know the one you use when you need to use a long pipe for leverage on a socket. I just stick the straight bar through the holes in the hub nut socket put socket on that which fits the 1/2 drive on torque wrench. More complex than it sounds but quick, simple and effective.

Originally Posted by Trout

My socket set has a straight bar with a 1/2 inch socket drive which slides along the bar (Sidchrome). You know the one you use when you need to use a long pipe for leverage on a socket. I just stick the straight bar through the holes in the hub nut socket put socket on that which fits the 1/2 drive on torque wrench. More complex than it sounds but quick, simple and effective.

Is this accurate though as it is not in the centre of the hub?