Thread: Disco II TD5 key problem

didnt we find out the buttons are a replacable part?

try a search on key fob

I soldered mine back on with plain old ordinary electric iron like you would get a Bunnings for $15 - $20. Not much skill required.

But if you don't want to do it take all to a electronic repair shop.

Hi, I am interested if you can get the switch as a replacable part. Does anyone have any information on this switch - supplier, part number? Maybe Farnells or RS Components? My spare key is also worn out.

Cheers, Erich

I recently did a refurb job on my key fobs for a D2, although I did'nt have to do any soldering.
For the rubber locking pad, I found a blanking grommet of the correct size, then trimmed the underside of the grommet off so that it sat in where the original rubber was. From here it was a matter of gluing it in place after checking that it made contact with locking mechanism, by checking light on fob. If you dont have contact, glue a small spacer under grommet so you get contact.
For the unlock, I mixed up a rubber type sealant called Proseal. This is used in Aviation, not too sure where else. But if you can find something similar I'm sure it would work.
I then smeared a thin layer of this sealant over the unlock button, which once dried has formed a nice plastic seal that appears to be holding up ok.
It's perhaps not the greatest fix, but certainly better than replacing keys.

Greg

I too have the buttons worn and used silver race tape (is that what its called? Not the cloth gaffa tape) over the button, using a sharp knife to cut around the button.

Though almost every other Rover key has replaceable buttons available, the D2 for some reason doesn't. Must be a market for 'em...

Reading your post I wasn't sure if your contact(s) is/are stuffed or just the rubber button. In my case, pushing on what was left of the rubber button did nothing - making me think the contact had failed. It was only when I pulled the key apart (the casing splits in two) that I realised it was the rubber button only - contacts were fine - and if the button was reinforced, it would work.

My second key is beginning to look a bit shabby too, so I am about to experiment with a new Land Rover key (made by Valeo, the OE supplier so prob not a 'factory' key but hopefully the same thing) bought on the US eBay site for about $90. The plan is the get the key blank cut and the key electronics programmed. If this can't be done for some reason, I've bought a very expensive new key head (which can be swapped over to my existing key and electronic board). Then again, the term 'expensive' is relative to the $350+ for the factory key, which appears to be the only other option.

4X4V8
Both my keys are by Valeo and you're right - I thought they were "original" as Valeo make other bits like the HVAC blend motors (I think Ron told me that...??)...

Is there a problem with the key blade? From my experience the blade "snaps" out of the fob-body so should mean you just "snap" it into the new one. No need for cutting new blades, just programming the new Valeo fob.

Cheers
Mike

Yes you're right, the blade snaps out, but I'm hoping to get a brand new key with a new blade that (in theory) will work better or longer than the worn blade.

If a locksmith can cut the key blank - it should be a straightforward thing - it'll cost about $40 and if I can also get the re-programming done ($50?), for about half the cost of a factory key I will have a third - new- functioning key.

But there maybe something fancy about the blade that makes it difficult. So if the locksmith tells me "it's a three-headed key, haven't seen one of those for years and I'll have to import parts from Germany to cut it" then I won't bother.

The same with re-programming - I have checked RAVE and the Microcat parts manual and it seems that Aust and US keys run the same frequency, so I hope it will be straight-forward to reprogramme at a dealer of whoever else has the fancy LR software. Again, if it is all too hard, I'll just take the plastic shell key head off and put it onto my existing key.

Originally Posted by 4X4V8

Yes you're right, the blade snaps out, but I'm hoping to get a brand new key with a new blade that (in theory) will work better or longer than the worn blade.

If a locksmith can cut the key blank - it should be a straightforward thing - it'll cost about $40 and if I can also get the re-programming done ($50?), for about half the cost of a factory key I will have a third - new- functioning key.

But there maybe something fancy about the blade that makes it difficult. So if the locksmith tells me "it's a three-headed key, haven't seen one of those for years and I'll have to import parts from Germany to cut it" then I won't bother.

The same with re-programming - I have checked RAVE and the Microcat parts manual and it seems that Aust and US keys run the same frequency, so I hope it will be straight-forward to reprogramme at a dealer of whoever else has the fancy LR software. Again, if it is all too hard, I'll just take the plastic shell key head off and put it onto my existing key.

I wish you all the luck in the world