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Thread: Brake problems - gurus needed!

  1. #1
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    Brake problems - gurus needed!

    Hi all

    We have a 1981 Range Rover Classis

    We have just fitted Disco (1995 non ABS) axles disc to disc ... well in the process. this was so we could do te toy conversion.

    Now we have a situation where the RRC brake master cylinder (horizontal mount type) has more pipes than we need. Two to each caliper as opposed to one on the disco.

    So can I easily block off the additional pipes? Or does anyone know whether it is an easy changeout to a disco master cylinder?

    Any advice greatly appreciated

  2. #2
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    you should be able to change out to a disco MC. (even if you need to custom fab the tower/mounts This is how I would go as then you maintain the correct mc/slave relationship, actually Id copy the entire disco brake system at the end of the day)

    you can blank off the unrequired ports on the rangie MC but you need to be careful to blank them off in such a way that you allow flow through both the primary and secondary brake circuts otherwise you could get some entertaining braking action.

    I dont have the schematic in front of me ATM and since I dont normally do rangies will have to dig for one in RAVE (if it goes back that early) I dont have any paper based rangies books I can research. I'll post again if rave shows anything.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  3. #3
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    Ok check out the pic...

    what you want to do is this (to reuse your range MC)

    remove and blank off the lines from the secondary side of the system after the tpiece that in the schematic is attached to the biasing/protection valve and route the primaries directly to the front brake cylinders, thats it your done for doing the spannering

    now take it to an engineering shop cause you've just changed the braking system for your vehicle and get an engineers certification for a mod plate, get the mod plate, get the insurance company to sign off on it and in some cases go through the registration process again so that the RTA (or equivelent) is aware of the modifications to the vehice (may not be required but always best to find out from them).

    cheers
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    Last edited by Blknight.aus; 10th July 2008 at 11:32 AM. Reason: baby emergancy, had to cut the post short. (second go, bad spelling + typos)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
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    I have done a few Disco to early classic changeovers, And found it is an engineering requirement in most states to retain the original braking system the vehicle was manufactured with.
    The way to retain the RRC braking system is to run a 10mm drill through the mounting holes in the RRC original brake calipers(Which are 3/8" holes, and use 3'8"unf bolts), and then you can use the Disco 10mm metric mounting bolts. You then end up with Imperial RRC calipers attached to Disco metric axle housings. The RRC disc offsets are the same as a D1, and line up perfectly.
    The only problem exist when you want to go to vented front discs/calipers, this requires a caliper spacer kit to retain the early RRC twin circuit caliper, or find a pair of 1990 on RRC Vogue calipers, stubs, hubs and discs etc and graft these to the end of the D1 swivel housings.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    Your MC is probably different to mine. But on mine the extra banjo fittings simply unbolted, reducing each double port back to a single.

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    Thanks all. Really appreciate the information and will have another look tonight (what fun!)

    It's for a comp car (slow work) so luckily the engineering certification won't be needed.

    Will let you know how I get on

    Thanks

    Tony

  7. #7
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    Hi Rockrover,

    Whichever calipers you end up using have a look here:

    Outer Limits 4x4 Board :: View topic - Trouble bleeding brakes?........you won't believe this!

    You should have the same (81.....Lockheed) M/C as mine. The thread above details an issue I came across when installing a brand new same M/C.

    Can email you the relevant manual if you want. The key diagram is on the next page of what Blknight posted.

    cheers.

  8. #8
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    would love to see the next page mate

    tberson@airlandlogistics.com.au

    Cheers and thanks

  9. #9
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    if its for comp work then you can omit the t pieces and the proportioning valves entirely and you will have a 50/50 brake distribution as opposed to the normal 70/30
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Hi Rockrover,

    On broadband?.......whole manual might be 5meg from memory.

    Blknight is right, if using the disco calipers do as he says if 50/50 is OK.

    The prob with mine was that the primary pipes were going to the secondary hoses at each end of the front diff. Hose orientation was correct as per manual, piping was wrong way round.

    Just make sure you follow the primary pipes from the M/C to the front diff so you are really using the correct circuit.

    HTH, DL

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