TD5 fuel levels

**Frontier1** · 12th July 2008, 10:01 AM

I did see the other thread from Weekender but wasn't sure whether there is new info' on this issue now.

I've only had my 2002 II TD5 Disco' for about 3 months and although the previous owner was telling me that he was getting about 800 or more odd k's to a tank, I noticed that the fuel gauge indicater light comes on when I've only done about 650 k's. The manual says this should be a 95ltr tank.

I assume the "reserve" section is about 10 ltrs. I ran the vehicle recently down to when the light came on and then for about 86k's more by which point the needle was rubbing the bottom of the gauge.

When I went to fill up, I still could only put in 80.75ltrs before it was full again. The log book history includes all service receipts and work done from when he bought it new, theres been no replacement of senders or fuel pump.

The idea of running her til she actually runs dry isn't appealing so does anyone have any ideas what's happening here?

Cheers, Pete'

**simonr23** · 12th July 2008, 10:11 AM

while ive not tested it(run the car dry), my td5 disco2 is very similar. assuming the guage is accurate at 1/4, 1/2, etc, my "reserve" seems to be about 18 litres. also since the needle sits so far off the dial when the ignition is off, perhaps the true empty mark is somewhere down near that level.

mousie · 12th July 2008, 03:13 PM

Ditto for me too, I think I'm at the end of the line and only end up putting in 70-76 litres. So your findings are about what a few of us appear to be getting. Geoff

**Frontier1** · 12th July 2008, 05:10 PM

Thanks guys,

Well I guess I'm going to have to run it down and see where we end up.

I might even take some shots of the gauge at the point where the light comes on and then when I would calculate it being close to empty, using simonr's 18 ltrs, that would give me around 150-160k's more.

That priming sequence in the manual better work!

Pete'

**Blknight.aus** · 12th July 2008, 05:20 PM

using a 95 liter tank as an example...

about 80l of that will be your main drivable amount of fuel

about 10l will be your "reserve"

the rest is sullage space in the tank so that your pickup doesnt take up all the crud and water in the bottom of the tank, so that you still maintain a modicom of cooling ability for the injectors and so that sloshing inside the tank while your on the reserve doesnt expose the pick up to air starving your diesel of fuel.

IMHO the td5s reserve margin is very generous but when you consider that you can keep the vehicle moving under power right down till the needle is off the bottom of empty (I dont reccomend you do this) on most sane slopes Thats a good thing, One of the work vehicles will die if you try to side slope to the right for more than about 30 seconds when the fuel warning lights come on.

**simonr23** · 12th July 2008, 05:21 PM

it does. when i changed the fuel filter i had to prime it. although i didnt need to hold the throttle flat(seemed a bit sketchy so i didnt try)

**Blknight.aus** · 12th July 2008, 05:53 PM

Originally Posted by Frontier1

Thanks guys,

Well I guess I'm going to have to run it down and see where we end up.

I might even take some shots of the gauge at the point where the light comes on and then when I would calculate it being close to empty, using simonr's 18 ltrs, that would give me around 150-160k's more.

That priming sequence in the manual better work!

Pete'

out to see if you can cause a premature failure of the pump?

The priming sequence works and should be carried out whenever you change or bleed the fuel filter.

usually cycling the key to the run position (where you get the idiot lights) and waiting for the pump to time out 3 times is enough the full procedure stops the pump from turning off untill the engine is idling or you turn the key off.

**justinc** · 12th July 2008, 06:04 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

out to see if you can cause a premature failure of the pump?

The priming sequence works and should be carried out whenever you change or bleed the fuel filter.

usually cycling the key to the run position (where you get the idiot lights) and waiting for the pump to time out 3 times is enough the full procedure stops the pump from turning off untill the engine is idling or you turn the key off.

What Dave said. But sometimes when priming after an injector change or fuel block replacement when the rail is completely drained, holding the foot flat does help start it easier. Better than overheating the solenoid contacts/ starter motor.

JC

**Frontier1** · 12th July 2008, 06:05 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

out to see if you can cause a premature failure of the pump?

Ok Dave, point taken!

Not something that I want to hasten.

But what to do then? Do I just assume that I am getting about 9k's/ltr (11.11l/100k's), and therefor on 95liters I'll definitely get 810k's (leaving 5ltrs), before I need to refill?

I just don't want to fill up more often than I have to, that's all.

Pete'

**Blknight.aus** · 12th July 2008, 07:59 PM

Actually you want to fill up as often as you can....

and the best time to do it is late in the evening (10 mins before they close)on a tuesday on government pay week (which is now tuesday week away) obviously depending on your milage you may not be able to but the reasons in favor of frequent late night refills are as follows

1. the fuel will be cooler and denser so your getting all the bang for your buck

2. as the refills are usually all said and done done by the afternoon before the bulk fuel haulers have to be off the road it gives the fuel in the tank time to settle if its been topped up on tuesday (its normally wednesday/saturday at my local servos) and for the crud at the bottom to be drawn off by someone other than you

3. you will get your choice of bowsers and positions so you can always fill up the facing the same way so you can more accurately monitor your refils.

4. by filling up often you provide more fuel to keep the injectors cool and the pump lubed

5. by keeping the tank full you minimise the opportunity for condensation to form in your fuel tank

6. If you happen to get a little water in the tank, the marginal miniscibiity of diesel will pick it up and put it in the fuel water seperator without compromising the quality of the fuel. or to put it another way if you HAD to pump 100ml of water through your fuel system would you rather do it with the 100mls suspended in 10l of diesel or 90?

7. If the servo happens to be out of fuel on one day you still have all whats left in the tank to play with (I like to refuel at the 3/4 full mark and start to get a mite jumpy at the 1/2 way mark)

8. If the fuels cheap and you have a shop a docket take the full 100L your allowed to take, fill a jerry if you have to ( I carry empties for just this reason) ATM Im in cahoots with a mate and when on driving tasks we pick out cheap servos that take shop a dockets, load a pair of 44's in the back and fill them up, he buys 100 I buy 100 we use the shop a dockets then we do the next servo. We might only save say $8 a drum each when we buy the fuel but when you then factor in that over the next month we dont buy fuel we save about an additional $15 or so as we're not paying the next lot of hiked prices ESP if we have to refuel and have missed the discount price cycle. This is extra effective come Long weekends, school holidays, Easter, Xmas and public holidays when theres that 10-15Cpl jump in price.

But thats just me...

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