Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Chassi Rust Repair (Series) - Need Advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Boonah, QLD
    Posts
    778
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Chassi Rust Repair (Series) - Need Advice

    Okay the time has come to make a decision about my chassi. I have some moderate chassi rust around the driver's side of the gearbox crossmember (see pics v v v) which I think is NOT beyond repair. This will be the first big splurge of $$$$ on my project getting it fixed and I would like some opinions on the matter. I know there a are few welders on here and your input would be greatly appreciated.

    I have some welding skills, not to bad with the ol' stick but i have never laid hands on a mig which i assume is necessary for the job so as far as i'm concerned, I may be lacking the skills to do the job.

    My build up of this truck is purely as a weekend camping rig which will spend most of it's outings either on the highway or on the beach (maybe some easy forestry tracks e.g. mt mee & glasshouse thrown in occationally as well as trips to LCMP and other camping sites). My battle-truck will remain unmodified in the drivetrain and will not be pushed offroad (chicken track for me - don't want to risk those rover diffs) because most importantly of all this build has to be kept to a minimum $$$$$ budget.

    Okay If you made it through all my waffeling THIS IS THE IMPORTANT LINE TO READ!!!!!

    I want to get my truck back on the road and redgestered ASAP so I can get out to the bush and use it!!!

    Sooo..... What is the go with repairing this sort of chassi rust??
    - Do I have to get it all cut out and then seam weld a replacement section in??
    - Can I cut the bad stuff and then plate & gussett over all the gaping holes?? (I am aware that having two pieces of metal together will eventually trap moisture causing it to rust... again, but i'm not worried about this - see above statement about getting the truck regod asap)
    - How do i get it through roady for the least amount of hassell and $$$???? < < < THE BIG QUESTION

    Pics (click thumbnail for bigger picture)



    The last image is of the passenger side of the gearbox crossmember.

    I am planning to get a quote from a local Fitter and Turner (the truck is on a property about 20mins east of Warwick) who also does light fabrication and mig/tig welding - well that's what it says on his business card - on geting the job done professionally as there are some other things that need doing e.g. install the new rear crossmember. But anything I can do myself, short of doing a tafe course on welding is a big bonus.

    But basically I'm out to get more information from you guys on the forum about the task i have confronting me, knowlege is power and all that stuff... Any advice, techniques, tips, pointers on my situtation is greatly appreciated

    Cheers Newbs,

    P.S. I'm in Queensland

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    That is fairly extensive rust. It would probably be just as easy to get another chassis that is in much better condition. They aren't very expensive, but finding a good one may be a bit difficult.

    If it is that bad there, there must be a lot of other places that need work as well???

    But, if you want to go ahead fixing it: first you need to pull the box and t-case. Otherwise there is no room to swing a grinder. I have repaired similar rust before in the same spot (not quite as bad). Just neatly cut out the rusted sections, get some 3mm steel plate and cut a section that neatly fits the hole (i.e. for each chassis rail, there will be 3 pieces for the bottom and each side). Weld it in (can use a stick if you know what you are doing - but mig is easier), grind back flush. Bits like the gearbox x-member and handbrake pivot will need to re cut off, then welded back onto the repair sections if still usable.

    If you spray some cold gal and later fish oil or lanolin on the inside and outside of the chassis, you won't get any rust problems down the track.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    thats pretty bad but you can just cut and plate the chassis as needed, drop off everything you can so you can get in there and get the angles you like to work at.

    If its that rusty there your also going to have more problems with the rear cross member and the front spring hangers
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Boonah, QLD
    Posts
    778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    This is the only bit that I posted as it is the hardest... if I can do this, the other bad parts will be easy. If I had posted all the other problem sections you would still be reading about them and not posting As suspected my rear crossmember is unserviceable but I have a complete new one and sleves to attach it - simply cut and paste for that one

    Not too worried about pulling drivetrain parts, everything from the firewall back has been removed to make this easier.

    I don't want to get a new chassi as I would like to keep my Military spec one i aready have. Sounds like the method izuzurover spoke of would be best as when i grind the welds back and paint it wont even look like a repair has been done - and should fly through rego?? Thats what I'm really worried about, fixing it to a standard that wil please the inspector.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Boonah, QLD
    Posts
    778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Is it worth getting a mig welder and having a chop at it myself? I thinking about getting one anyway as there are alot of other niggly things that need fixing and from what i have heard a mig is better suited. Unfortunatly the local power company does not offer 3 phase power so looks like i'm only going for a little one - will a single phase mig be enough to do chassi work?

    Cheers Newbs,

  6. #6
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,521
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Newbs-IIA View Post
    Is it worth getting a mig welder and having a chop at it myself? I thinking about getting one anyway as there are alot of other niggly things that need fixing and from what i have heard a mig is better suited. Unfortunatly the local power company does not offer 3 phase power so looks like i'm only going for a little one - will a single phase mig be enough to do chassi work?

    Cheers Newbs,
    You seem to have a bit of a misconception - the chassis was almost certainly built using a stick welder, so there is no reason why one should not be used to repair it. The only advantage of a MIG is that it is easier, and easier to get a good looking weld with, and is probably cheaper to run if doing a lot of welding.

    Since you are only welding thin material, a single phase welder is perfectly adequate - I think of my next door neighbour who regularly welds up to two inch thick plate with a single phase welder MIG welder fabrication things like Bulldozer stick rakes.

    On the legal side, you need to check your local regulations - it is possible that you may need to get the welding done by someone with professional qualifications, or at least to sign off on it.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
    lokka Guest
    simplest way to do this type of job would be to find another chasis which is rust free in the areas you need and chop them out and fit into your chasis and a stick welder will do tha job tho may take some practice tho a mig would make it so much easyer stay away from the gas less migs as they are a rite mungrel to get tha hang of a good single phase 240volt mig will be more than enough to do it tho the cost of getting the unit then the cost of the gas is sometimes what turns most people off buying a mig also dont bother with the throwaway gas canisters as they just dont last long enough and once you get a mig and have it set up right you will find jobs for it or even do lil jobs for mates for beer tickets

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Boonah, QLD
    Posts
    778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Will it be better to use 3 seperate pieces welded together to replace the bottom half of a chassi rail or one single "C" shaped piece bent to fit. I am thinking that less welds = stronger???

    It's starting to look like I may be able to have a chop at this myself It seems pretty simple - cut and paste, but I do understand that preperation will be the key. Thanks heaps to everyone that has offered help on this topic

    Also what is the protocol for changing my gearbox crossmember to a removeable 'bolt on' style? Will this be okay to go through Roadworthy Cert? The thought popped into my mind that while i'm modifying that area I might as well do it - or will it not be strong enough after the extensive repairs to that area of the chassi?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Boonah, QLD
    Posts
    778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by lokka View Post
    simplest way to do this type of job would be to find another chasis which is rust free in the areas you need and chop them out and fit into your chasis and a stick welder will do tha job tho may take some practice tho a mig would make it so much easyer stay away from the gas less migs as they are a rite mungrel to get tha hang of a good single phase 240volt mig will be more than enough to do it tho the cost of getting the unit then the cost of the gas is sometimes what turns most people off buying a mig also dont bother with the throwaway gas canisters as they just dont last long enough and once you get a mig and have it set up right you will find jobs for it or even do lil jobs for mates for beer tickets
    Yea seems to be the going thought that mig welder = easier. The only part of my Arc Welding ability that i am lacking confidence is verticle welds, mine seem a bit sloopy compared to my horizontal ones. I guess more practice will fix that.

    The thing is that even though I would love to have the luxury of a whole spare parts truck and chassi, the project is out on the downs and removing a spare chassi to there from Brisvegas, sunny or gold coast would be more hassle that it would be worth I think. Plus I don't think Dad would appreciate another LR wreck on his block

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,521
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Less welds should not mean stronger - if it does, your welding is not up to scratch, after all there is an awful lot of welding in the original manufacture. If a lot of welding is involved, distortion of the chassis may become a problem unless care is taken to manage it.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!