The ABS system on these D1's is relatively simple compared to later ones
Firstly, as previously mentioned, the sensors need to be pushed in until they contact the sensor ring, the air gap will be 'adjusted' as you drive. This however can be upset by excessive wheel bearing or swivel pin freeplay, causing the rear hubs to push the sensor away from the sensor ring and the front CV's to push the sensor up during cornering. Check these items for movement first. If these and the sensors are all ok, then the lamp should go off after 8kmhr.
Secondly, the brake lamp switch is a common fault for these, even if the brake lamps ARE working, the switch is 2 stage and can still be faulty. This will require a code reset after replacement.
Thirdly, in unusual cases, the connections to the ABS modulator can require cleaning etc. The modulator is on the LH inner guard near the washer bottle, and the main wiring harness plug is on the side of it.
The best way to diagnose and repair these systems is to find someone who understands the system and most of all knows how to operate a testbook/ rovacom/ Autologic and get it done once, properly.
REMOVING THE GLOBE IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS, and not to mention illegal and renders the vehicle unroadworthy and uninsurable. This is because with this system, it is possible with some faults to have NO braking effect at all.
As you mentioned, the expensive bits,(sensors) have been fitted already, so there isn't much more to do to fix it.
Take clarkie up on his offer, it is sometimes the best way to find a problem if the diagnostics aren't available.
If you need any more info etc, just PM or PH 0408 995 635 (BH) and I'll be happy to talk you through it
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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