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Thread: Disco1 swivel preload

  1. #1
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    Disco1 swivel preload

    Hi all,

    If I was to measure my swivel preload with the swivel mounted on the vehicle including wiper seal, what should the kg force be to move it?

    So if I was to only take off the wheel and track rod and drag link and then measure it.

    The RAVE manual says 1.16-1.46kg without the wiper seal.
    However searching the net has come up with up to 7kg when done as described.
    Should I just not be lazy and remove the wiper seal and do it as per RAVE?

    The car is fine with the smaller all terrains but with the 245/75 16 mud terrains it wanders a little bit. So I want to do this before I go away next to see if it improves anything.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    In my experience, not removing the seal is fine.

    However, I can't see loose preloads being your problem as that normally causes steering shimmy rather than wander.
    Scott

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The problem with measuring it with the seal in place is that the amount of drag provided by the seal is very variable. That said, the actual amount of preload required is not particularly critical, although it becomes more and more critical as you go to oversize tyres, change suspension geometry, get out of balance wheels and so on.

    Lack of preload is normally noticed by shimmy after hitting a bump, but, particularly if everything else is in good shape, may show up first as wandering, particularly since the damper will usually reduce or eliminate shimmy unless it is very bad.

    Excessive preload will reduce the self centring, but will need to be well above normal to notice in ordinary driving.

    I would check it with seals in place, and increase it if it is not at least 50% above the non-seal book value.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    If your D1 has ABS, the preload value is about half of this!!!

    The ABS upper bearing is a BUSH, and it only has a thin flat thrust bearing and washers under the pin, and a taper roller as per NON ABS on the bottom of the swivel housing.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys.

    When I do it I will either drop off the wiper seal or maybe back off the upper pin and then try and get a measurement of just the wiper seal friction and then keep that figure in mind when setting it up.

    I saw the different settings in RAVE for ABS and non ABS. I don't have ABS so all is good. Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Hi Justin,

    Those tyres will cause the car to wander a little, the D2 now does, not sure if it is the size or just that they are muddies I have found even on the old car it would tram line more on the muds

    Danny
    :TakeABow:LAND ROVER

    Don't Follow Me, I'm in a "Land Rover", You WON'T make it.

    aut viam inveniam aut faciam

  7. #7
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    most the time a new after market steering stabaliser will help with the tyres wondering around the road as the standered ones if never replaced would be pretty average by now

  8. #8
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    Thanks Danny.

    I might just leave it until I have the front end apart next. Probably when I do an axle or CV (not that I have broken any at all yet).

    I had the damper off a few months ago to ensure it still worked after I damaged it again. It looks bad but works fine. Very stiff.
    It is a Bilstein but does not pull to the left like the Bilstein thread spoke about. So all is well there.

  9. #9
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    Well I went up to the sunny coast last week. On the drive home I noticed that when I hit a bump in the road the steering would kick a little. I had a boot load of gear including a fridge and three bikes on a bike carrier so it was sitting down in the rear slightly (add the rear steel bar I just fitted too ). So that wouldn't have helped things. Also it was wandering a bit. Was fairly annoying.

    So today I adjusted the swivel preload just to see what would change. I didn't bother (read didn't remember) to do the with and without seal bit. Before measurements were about 4-4.5kg. After was around 6-6.5kg. I removed a .25mm shim one side and a .35mm shim the other.
    Steering certainly seemed a little tighter on my trips this afternoon but will have to see how it affects the next highway run I do. I don't drive on the highway much at the moment so that might be a while.

  10. #10
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Hi,

    Having the back weighed down should improve things because you effectively have more caster angle up front.

    The wanders on my old bus were caused by stuffed panhard rod bushes, front and rear wheel bearings out of adjustment, rear ball joint stuffed, rear A frame bushes stuffed, stuffed radius arm bushes (front and rear), stuffed tie rod ends, pitman arm loose out of the bottom of the steering box (true........check yours), etc, etc in combination or separately.

    What I'm trying to say is that they can wander from rear probs as much as the front.

    Someone on here (Philip A?) advised that correct swivel preload was best (easiest) achieved by just putting it all back together with new pin bearings and the existing shims. Sure worked for me.

    cheers, DL

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