Thread: 300Tdi ZF Flywheel TDC HELP!!!

Originally Posted by plugma

Hi Folks,

I am about half way through fitting a new timing belt, idler, tensioner & seals to my 1997 300Tdi with ZF auto box.

Whilst trying to locate TDC in order to fit the locking pin into the bell housing, I came across another one of those typical Landrover conundrums... (or did I ???)

In the absence of any other indications as to where TDC is (without having to take off the rocker cover) I rotated the crank and came across a very clear groove machined into the rear edge of the crank pulley. I assumed that this mark lines up with the woodruff key, in which case if rotated to the vertical position would be close to TDC.

Whilst trying to fit the locking pin, I found that there is a circular shallow indentation on the front face of the flywheel, but there wasn't a hope of this indentation holding the pressure required to loosen the crank end nut.

So.... I got someone to slowly rotate the crank whilst I held my finger up against the flywheel through the front cover plate. There are lots of shallow circular indentations that I assume are bolt holes (with bolts in them) There is also a deeper groove that seems to run out to the outer edge of the flywheel. The locking pin seems to fit into this groove with a very small amount of lateral movement.

Question is..... is this TDC and is this sufficient for all the pressure required to undo the crank end nut? Is it also sufficient to hold the pressures required to re-tighten the nut to 85N plus quarter of a turn? Hmmmmm!

Sorry dudes... I know it's all out there in files and forum posts, but I'm half way through and don't have time to go on another of those endless searches. I just gotta get it back on the road.

Anyone out there that has done a 300tdi/ZF timing belt replacement that can help?

Regards
Maarten

Maarten,

There is also a pointer mark on the front of the timing case where the front pulley is. I often check TDC here with the aid of a small set square to avoid parralax error. The slot at the rear of the crank is TDC mark for the auto, but won't be enough depth to hold the engine still. I suggest disconnecting the fuel pump wire, and wedge a bar and 1"1/16 socket from the crank bolt across UNDER the steering box, and crank the engine. This should be enough to loosen the crank bolt. To tighten up, use a longish pipe over the end of the socket bar, and hit the extension pipe with a decent size mallet. (We have a special tool to tighten crank bolts)

JC

Hi Maarten,
I think the flywheel locking pin is used for the timing only.
To find TDC take the oil cap off and check that the valves are closed
IE: rockers have some play.
To get the crank pulley off, there is a retaining tool No. LRT-12-080 that bolts to the crank pulley. At lest that's how it's done on a manual Defender.

Tony

Thanks Tony & JC...

I was a bit reluctant to use the starter to undo the crank bolt, but decided to give it a try. Just a short sharp turn of the ignition achieved the required result. Whilst it did loosen the bolt, the previous mechanic obviously used Loctite on the thread and I had to fight it right to the last few mm of turn.

Pulley/Damper came off with a bit of a fight and the Woodruf key and keyway look good... they are not flogged out at all.

Existing belt and pulleys are almost shiney clean and there is just a tiny amount of oil residue at the bottom of the case around the crank, so looks like it was just about time to replace seals anyway.

I will get my mates to build a crank tool for retensioning the crank bolt. Shouldn't be that hard.... just a few oversize washers welded onto a long handle.

How does one get the Woodruff key out of the crank without damaging it????

Regards
M.