That's the trouble with the Welsh, they'd take a leak anywhere.
Maybe you need a new welch plug in the engine.![]()
have a leaking welsh plug near exhauls manifold has any tried to change one can it be done without moving aircon how hard is it to do
That's the trouble with the Welsh, they'd take a leak anywhere.
Maybe you need a new welch plug in the engine.![]()
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
If it is the one between the manifold and the head at about number 3 and 4 cylinder, the screw in kind with a Hex key, then you will have to move the A/C compressor to get the manifold off. This isn't a problem though, as the compressor piping allows it to be rotated and pulled back from the bracket more than enough.
A new welch plug from LR is available, you can re use the old one, I'd just wire wheel the old sealant out of the threads and use a good pipe thread sealant on the thread when refitting it.
Be sure at this point to replace all the manifold studs, check the manifold face for straightness and obviously a new manifold gasket.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
.....and modify the manifold to reduce the possibility of breaking studs?
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
thanks for the info so it is not that hard of job to replace it. It is the one near the 3 and 4 cylinder any idear were i can download a workshop manual off the net to give me a hand with what part i may need as I live in darwin landy support up here is ****. So i will need to order all parts from down south before i start so i dont want to be left short any parts
I have had a lot of cause to investigate thread sealants recently
(as Landy Andy might tell you)
To cut a long story short: The best sealant I have found believe it or not
is the old permatex gasket sealant. (the stuff most mechanics have had in the bottom of their toolbox for ever)
We trialed an awfull lot of commonly available sealants and because we were dealing with plastics/stainless steel joints on our new sensors we had to be very carefull about product selection as many sealants attack/ create stress cracks in thermoplastics.
Quite by chance we were recommended to try this old world product.
We did try it and found when correctly applied to threads we could pressure test it to 180psi with compressed air with a 100% sucess rate on out products.
I dug up the TDS for this product & was amazed at its properties
http://www.permatex.com.au/TDS/80017.pdf
See paragraph 2 (Product benefits)
5000 psi!
It is also available as a locktite product, [loctite aviation gasket sealant]
We also found by experimentation that if the sealer is applied to both surfaces and left for a couple of hours before assembly a top class seal was effected.
The stuff is also alcohol/rosin based so is probably a greener product than most of the modern hi-tech thread sealer/lockers and as it a soft setting sealer, disassembly is not a problem.
Davy
By the way, I had 4 Welsh grandparents
you make one spelling mistake
Need to replace as driving from Darwin to Brisbane and back to Darwin at christmas
Has just started to leak bad
do you need a special tool to get the welch plug![]()
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