Thread: Better brakes in a RRC

Rotors are rotors.
90/110/disco/rangie they're all the same on the front. The only variations are vented or solid and you need to match vented calipers with vented rotors (for obvious reasons). Conversion kits did exist to space old calipers out to vented width.

You need to replumb the braking circuits to work with the new calipers. Otherwise you'll run out of stroke and create a system that doesn't work.

Currently you have one circuit pushing 4 front pistons, the other circuit pushing 4 front pistons and 4 rear pistons.
You need to replumb it so you have the large circuit (currently 4 front, 4 rear) to push all 8 front pistons.
The other circuit pushes all four rear pistons.

This gives you the front/back split that all modern vehicles seem to have. The old dual line circuit isn't that safe, if you lose one corner (say rotor burst which takes out the pistons in one front caliper), then you've lost both braking circuits and your pedal is only for decoration.
With a front/back split taking out one corner completely still leaves the brakes working on the other end.

I wouldn't use slotted rotors. But that's just me.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Ok, I may need correction here.
This is the plan.
Use 90 RRC rotors with 110 calipers and block port on second front pipe. I dont like the idea.
I may need to change master cylinder.
I will get slotted rotors when I know this all fits up. I have spoken to EBC brakes and they say some pads don't do the best when cold. But the green stuff seems popular and also the new 6000 series.
My question is.. Do the 90 Vented rotors work with 110 calipers? Looks to me they should. Will any of the 94 Disco set up improve it.
Thanks Tony.

It would be interesting to see how you would go with engineering if you started changing around the braking like that.

I know my engineer told me to "leave it as it is" until after engineering is done then he doesn't want to know anything about what I do. He was happy for me just to put the later model vented calipers in but not to change around the circuits.

I guess if you get a brake place to do it all and have the paper work then it would be fine, but not if you do it yourself.

Hi,

I put on slotted, non-vented DBA rotors, Mintex pads, stainless braided lines and a new M/C all at the same time. Stops like an ordinary car now, but I don't know which of the above made the most difference.

I was going to go down the Dougal path with defender calipers but the above combination is more than good enough, so no need.

Did find that the plumbing from the M/C was not right, primary and secondary circuits to the front calipers were the wrong way round and would not bleed properly. 81 model brakes, suspect there are a few around with this fault.

cheers.

Originally Posted by walker

I guess if you get a brake place to do it all and have the paper work then it would be fine, but not if you do it yourself.

Why do you say that?
It's a very simple job, requires mostly just bolting and unbolting the adapters and lines that are already there. The only part I had to make was a plug for a spare port in the pressure reducing valve to the rear brakes. A brake bleed nipple with M10x1 thread will fill this hole nicely.

What you're doing is changing the brake circuit to work exactly how the later discos, defenders and every japanese car I've owned run.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Why do you say that?
It's a very simple job, requires mostly just bolting and unbolting the adapters and lines that are already there. The only part I had to make was a plug for a spare port in the pressure reducing valve to the rear brakes. A brake bleed nipple with M10x1 thread will fill this hole nicely.

What you're doing is changing the brake circuit to work exactly how the later discos, defenders and every japanese car I've owned run.

I know it is easy, but most engineers will want to see paperwork for any changes on the brakes. I guess they think they are important.

You also should have ADR stamps on any brake parts including lines. I did not know this and have used braided brake lines from the UK so I hope they pass.

Originally Posted by walker

I know it is easy, but most engineers will want to see paperwork for any changes on the brakes. I guess they think they are important.

You also should have ADR stamps on any brake parts including lines. I did not know this and have used braided brake lines from the UK so I hope they pass.

Braided brake lines here are on the "fail" list. Not entirely sure why, maybe they're more easily abraded. After all, all hoses are braided, it just depends if the braid is external or not.

HI Mr Walker,

I'm interested in a couple of things here. I still have the old '81 M/C and it has no ADR number on it. The one I got from Paddocks is identical. Calipers, etc have no ADR numbers.

My braided lines are MOT compliant in the mother country according to supplier Paddocks. Interested in what your engineer makes of this.

There is someone doing braided lines ADR compliant in Melb for about $25 ea. Posted on here within the last year.

cheers, DL

The later Wabco hydraulic system is excellent. APRacing calipers up front, Lockheed at the rear.
Can find these around, but make sure you get the ECU and harness for it.

Best thing is as long as you have electrical power, your engine can stop and you will have full braking capacity. For a vehicle that weighs 2 tonnes it was one of the reasons I bought it over a Disco back in 1997 .........plus the fact the air suspension was cool..... and I bought it at a pre auction at its encumbered costs..... and I am not going to tell you how less it was!!! hehe