Removing hub nuts...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by justinc

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

These bearing adjuster/ locknuts nuts hold your wheel hub to your vehicle.

If they come loose or come apart, the only thing holding the hub assembly on is your brake caliper.

Not to mention that you can loose braking performance while the hub is 'coming off'.

Please buy the correct tool for the job, especially one as important as this.


JC

---

At about $10 (what I paid in Cooma) why wouldn't you buy one.


Martyn

Just a techie one, i am going to change the rear discs on my 95 'fender and would like to know if this is the same procedure to torque up the hubs on this. Also i noticed that the second time it is torqued to 10Nm but it says 90lbf.in....but 50Nm is only 37lbf.in What is the go with this, should it be 100Nm? ;)

C

[QUOTE]These bearing adjuster/ locknuts nuts hold your wheel hub to your vehicle.

If they come loose or come apart, the only thing holding the hub assembly on is your brake caliper.[QUOTE]
What holds the nuts on is NOT the locknut, It is the locking plates. Make sure you have new or at least good locking plates. Hands up all those who buy new plates when they repack their bearings?
On a RRC Disco 1 the nuts are only finger tight.
Regards Philip A

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by haggisbasher

Just a techie one, i am going to change the rear discs on my 95 'fender and would like to know if this is the same procedure to torque up the hubs on this. Also i noticed that the second time it is torqued to 10Nm but it says 90lbf.in....but 50Nm is only 37lbf.in What is the go with this, should it be 100Nm? ;)

C

---

No, from the looks definately 10Nm. The 37 is lbf.feet where the 90 is lbf.inch. So much less leverage. It seems the 50Nm is to pull it all into place, and the 10Nm is to keep it there.

cheers!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by haggisbasher

Just a techie one, i am going to change the rear discs on my 95 'fender and would like to know if this is the same procedure to torque up the hubs on this. Also i noticed that the second time it is torqued to 10Nm but it says 90lbf.in....but 50Nm is only 37lbf.in What is the go with this, should it be 100Nm? ;)

C

---

I think you are getting foot lb's mixed up with inch lb's


Cheers

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by haggisbasher

Just a techie one, i am going to change the rear discs on my 95 'fender and would like to know if this is the same procedure to torque up the hubs on this. Also i noticed that the second time it is torqued to 10Nm but it says 90lbf.in....but 50Nm is only 37lbf.in What is the go with this, should it be 100Nm? ;)

C

---

This is the procedure for all deefas, Discos and Classics.
And as previously stated, 10Nm is 90 inch pounds, not foot pounds.

the outer nut holds the inner nut in place, the tab holds that outer nut in place so you dont really need it you could use locktite or stake the nut. But you should replace the plate.

the wheel bearing thing has been done to death but to summate the procedure for the double nuts

crank up the inner nut as tight as you can. spin the wheel 3 times in both directions

back it off half a turn.

tighten it up a bit

place on the lock tab

tighten up the outer nut

fold over the tab
install the flange

rim rock check at 50km and again after a couple of hundred as well as a hand temp check

ooops.... i'll go back into my cave... i misread it. I thought it might be just to hold it in place. Looks like i'll be getting a new tool to do this..... and swap my rear rotors over.

Ta to the brains trust

C

what about the good old cold chisel and hammer

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by weeds

what about the good old cold chisel and hammer

---

More than good enough in most cases. Can also use a suitable pair of stilsons, Large shifter, or many other devices. Make sure that the outer nut is done up tight and the lock tabs are in place. It won't fall off.