Removing hub nuts...

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Originally Posted by weeds

what about the good old cold chisel and hammer

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I remember taking my nissan in a previous life to the stealer and finding out they had used a screwdriver and hammer. :mad:

well let's look at the replies

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Originally Posted by justinc

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

These bearing adjuster/ locknuts nuts hold your wheel hub to your vehicle.

If they come loose or come apart, the only thing holding the hub assembly on is your brake caliper.

Not to mention that you can loose braking performance while the hub is 'coming off'.

Please buy the correct tool for the job, especially one as important as this.
it's not that important, sure having the hub nuts fall off wouldn't be a good idea, but you would know about it long before anything happened



JC

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Originally Posted by Bushie

At about $10 (what I paid in Cooma) why wouldn't you buy one.
i keep meaning to buy one!


Martyn

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[quote=PhilipA;834721][quote]These bearing adjuster/ locknuts nuts hold your wheel hub to your vehicle.

If they come loose or come apart,most unlikely the only thing holding the hub assembly on is your brake caliper. good for that, or we might lose it.

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What holds the nuts on is NOT the locknut, It is the locking plates. not quite correct, the two nuts are locked 'torqued' together with the tab washer between Make sure you have new or at least good locking plates. Hands up all those who buy new plates when they repack their bearings? me, each second time
On a RRC Disco 1 the nuts are only finger tight.
Regards Philip A

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[quote=Blknight.aus;834838]the outer nut holds the inner nut in place, the tab holds that outer nut in place so you dont really need it you could use locktite or stake the nut. But you should replace the plate.

the wheel bearing thing has been done to death but to summate the procedure for the double nuts

crank up the inner nut as tight as you can. spin the wheel 3 times in both directions

back it off half a turn.

tighten it up a bit

place on the lock tab

tighten up the outer nut

fold over the tab

what he said,
and you don't need a socket to do this

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Originally Posted by weeds

what about the good old cold chisel and hammer

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not required, they arn't that tight

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Originally Posted by r.over

More than good enough in most cases. Can also use a suitable pair of stilsons, Large shifter, or many other devices. Make sure that the outer nut is done up tight and the lock tabs are in place. It won't fall off.

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yep.

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Originally Posted by Gillie

I remember taking my nissan in a previous life to the stealer and finding out they had used a screwdriver and hammer. :mad:

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that would work, didn't they have big multigrips?

so now i've had a grump,
what holds the wheels on your trailer?
answer -
a split pin!

in most cases the hub nut on a trailer is retained by a split pin, no brake caliper to stop it departing, if it is not equipped with disc brakes, no double locking nuts with a tab washer, just a split pin holding a loose nut.

All this talk over a $10 tool. Geez.
I bought mine from British Offroad but it is only the screwdriver through the side version so you can't put a torque wrench on it. Just do it by feel.

As for new locking plates, I have never bought new ones. Just hammer the old ones flat. Although I do have four new ones ready and waiting for next time.

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Originally Posted by Utemad

All this talk over a $10 tool. Geez.
I bought mine from British Offroad but it is only the screwdriver through the side version so you can't put a torque wrench on it. Just do it by feel.

As for new locking plates, I have never bought new ones. Just hammer the old ones flat. Although I do have four new ones ready and waiting for next time.

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I'd be worried about metal fatigue if I was bending and straightening them a number of times.

ps to Dave, see I was paying attention :D

It is always in the back of my mind when doing it but if it is going to snap it will be when you are folding it over or straightening it. Not 5000kms later.

Plus any slippage of the nuts will be evident long before a wheel parts company.

I hesitate to keep this thread going as IMHO it is done to death.
BUT there is a difference between a mechanical holding device and a chemical one.
I believe that in critical applications a mechanical device is preferred and subsequently race cars are still required to have safety wired sumps, and aircraft have safety wire requirements on landing gear etc.
A split pin (if new and installed properly on a castellated nut ) CANNOT fail at the design loads placed on it. A locking plate cannot move if installed correctly.
In any case the locking plates or split pins etc are not so much to hold the whole thing together but to ensure no change in setting.

I have never seen a properly fitted split pin or plate fail with bearing failure. The usual failure mode is either the bearing disintegrating or the inner picking up on the shaft. There was a photo in Overlander a while ago of a Campomatic like mine with one wheel. It was obvious that the bearing had picked up and sheared the 2 tonne capacity axle.
Lost wheels seem to be usually caused by total failure of the pressed on bearing on non fully floating rear axles, where the outer of the bearing parts company when the balls disintegrate.
Although I LIKE Loctite , and love modern flange sealants etc, I will stick with the old methods in this application
Regards Philip A

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

A split pin (if new and installed properly on a castellated nut ) CANNOT fail at the design loads placed on it. A locking plate cannot move if installed correctly.
In any case the locking plates or split pins etc are not so much to hold the whole thing together but to ensure no change in setting.

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sure they dont, thats why f111's dont lose nose gear and blackhawks always stay in the air.

split pins can and do fail as do lock tabs... chemical bonds fail as well.

lockwire does not just hold the fastener in place and in some applications its VERY unwise to think that it will... Lockwire is a tell tale, if its snapped or deformed its moved.

If youve done your bearings properly you dont need a secondary locking device like a split pin or a lock tab the tension on the threads will hold it in place. BUT youd be very unwise to rely on that as it only takes a little wear for it to come loose and its all over for you.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Lockwire is a tell tale, if its snapped or deformed its moved.

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Must be why they use it on some Gas turbines, for a tell tail, not to lock them in:p

Oh dear. I guess this is why the internet should be used advisedly as a source of information. This is possibly the most disinformative thread I have seen on any forum.

I'll stake the AAP and the TRAMM against anything youd like to offer up....

just IMHO, if its good enough for areo regulations I figure its good enough for the humble landy...