Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Rear windows intermittent fault

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Blairgowrie, Vic
    Posts
    1,106
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thrower78, call TRS in Adelaide on Tuesday 08 8384 6933, talk to Phil.

    A replacement WECU would be about $70-$90. Same on D1 and D2.

    HTH

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Nelson Bay
    Posts
    16
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Got a similar problem with my Disco 1, but only on hot days in summer. Which is kinda when ya want the damnthings to work...

  3. #13
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    I too have the problem but only when I first start the car.....rear windows wont open with in less then 3 mins of driving they work fine....its almost like its waiting for power to get to the relays
    You'll find it's probably the ecu solder as stated above. When you drive the vibrations can make the solder contact connect or when it is warm. I had similar symptons and it was the board.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Nelson Bay
    Posts
    16
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Finally got back to the rpoblem as my aircon crapped out and rather than melt I figgered I better do something.

    Pulled out the ECU and the solder is all good. what i did find was that I'm only getting minimal volts (1.2V) across to the switches, anyone know any of the required voltages past the ECU?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    572
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by thrower78 View Post
    I have recently bought a disco 1 and love it have been having problems with my rear windows as well, pulled the circuit board out today and the previous owner has made a hell of a mess of it even scratching some of the green circuit paths. When i got it out a big section of the green part and some copper fell off (probably source of the problem) now the board is completely stuffed. Any ideas on where i could find a new one and how much should just hit up a landie wrecker?

    Andrew
    You can use wire to replace the copper track that fell off. Easy and permanent.

    Simply lay insulated wire along the tracks where the copper was and solder each end to the existing soldered joint. Should work fine.

    Good luck.

    Regards


    Martin

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    572
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by scottc View Post
    Finally got back to the rpoblem as my aircon crapped out and rather than melt I figgered I better do something.

    Pulled out the ECU and the solder is all good. what i did find was that I'm only getting minimal volts (1.2V) across to the switches, anyone know any of the required voltages past the ECU?
    It's worth trying some oil or WD40 on the switches. They can get covwered in verdigree (crap) and stop working. Someone mentioned earlier how the rear windows fail even though the front ones get used more. This is possibly why. in my experience with electronics and switches dirt causes heaps of problems.

    This is most obvious on old radios that crackle when you change the volume. A quick spray of the volume control clearing up the crud fixing them up most of the time. Technically the dirt causes a higher resistance on the switch or potentiometer causing the crackle or failure to operate.

    Regards


    Martin

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Muswellbrook NSW
    Posts
    29
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by scottc View Post
    Finally got back to the rpoblem as my aircon crapped out and rather than melt I figgered I better do something.

    Pulled out the ECU and the solder is all good. what i did find was that I'm only getting minimal volts (1.2V) across to the switches, anyone know any of the required voltages past the ECU?
    I too have had the rear windows on strike, did a search, found this thread, pulled the ECU out and found the exact same faulty soldering job, along with a few other cracked ones.

    I wonder, this ECU board, what else does it control? Anything with the air conditioner? More specifically, control the compressor clutch?

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!