Thread: How to fit a TD5 head.... Pt1

Right then the final installment. The car started at 9pm this evening.

firstly I finished fitting the exhaust manifold, and also the water pipe:



Next I fitted the inlet manifold gasket:



Now the inlet manifold. This was a bit fiddly but not too hard. It would have been easier to fit it to the head prior to fitting the head, but I wanted to reduce weight when we fitted the head.




Next connect up the fuel lines to teh fuel block and the fuel cooler. Also connect up the electrical connector





Set the wiring loom neatly under the inlet manifold (sorry no picture)

Now refit fuel cooler:



connect up glow plugs:



connect up the Alternator power lead



Connect up the MAP sensor:



Fit injector loom (probably not a bad time to fit a new one, but this one was new in June):



Plug up the injector loom:



Now fit the cam shaft front plug, the injector loom connection and the wiring to the water temperature switch:



Now connect up the turbo oil feed banjo bolt:



Now fit water and intake pipes:



Now we need to set the injector bump clearances. To do this, firstly you need to be able to turn the engine over by hand, so do this before you refit the fan.

Firstly get a breaker bar, and socket and fit to front pulley nut.



Now rotate the engine clockwise until injector 1 is fully open. (ie teh cam lobe has pushed up teh rocker to its highest point)

Slacken off the lock nut (13mm)



Get a screw driver and screw the adjuest down till you feel the injector pump bottom out.



Now back the screw off one entire turn.

Finally do up the lock nut.



Do this to all 5 injectors, in order.

Now refit rocker cover:



Prime fuel system, add water, and see if it starts:



Big thanks to JustinC for all his help, advice and encouragement. Cheers Justin. Really really appreciate it

I have a few little jobs to do including bleeding the water system and, changing the water hoses and hose clips and so on but thats basically it.

Edited to add I also apparently need to thank my lovely girlfreind for all her help with lifting things, general technical assistance and bringing me beer and tea

Originally Posted by YORKIE

pete,
out of interest are your manifold bolts the standard 8mm? or have you gone the bigger 10mm as has been done by others.
cheers
yorkie
ps only asking as mine heads to the shop tomorrow for manifold fix.

Hi Yorkie,

I have just put a new set of the standard 8mm ones in. I haven't yet suffered with any manifold / stud issues.

Rgds
Pete.

Thanks mate,

I found your info on the head gasket repair great. Just pulled the head, its being faced, and will be back in the 130 tomorow. The job was easy and interesting. I have just changed the gearbox and clutch and I find that brain numbing.

Cheers Ed

Fantastic Tutorial!.
I nothing of Diesels as I drive a V8, but followed your post with interest as I would one day like to upgrade to a Diesel.
When people mention oil in the loom, I take it they are talking about the injector loom under the rocker cover???
If so how much oil is splashed around under there, in other words the cam rollers are obviously oil lubricated and the chain etc so does the underside of the rocker contain a lot of oil?
Does the loom and the injectors sit in oil?
Could extra sealing be applied to the wiring loom ends or the injector connectors be sheathed with something to keep oil of them
Sorry for so many questions, just interested as I've heard of oil in loom problems.

Hello Pete,

You mention to make an angle gauge to tighten the headbolts to the specific torque.
Can you explain a little how you have done that.

Like many people in the rest of the world i´m going to change the head (turner type)

Your topic is a great help. Thanks for that

Originally Posted by Bareld

Hello Pete,

You mention to make an angle gauge to tighten the headbolts to the specific torque.
Can you explain a little how you have done that.

Like many people in the rest of the world i´m going to change the head (turner type)

Your topic is a great help. Thanks for that

Hi, Thanks for this fantastic tutorial.
I too do not understand about the head tightening protractor .
Can you not just use a torque wrench?
Regards Nick Viner.

The reason for the angle is to compensate for the friction or twist on the bolts as they are tightened,both will allow a Torque wrench to ''click'' without the correct amount of torque being applied to the bolts,if that makes sense. Pat