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Thread: Holden engine fitting

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Once you get the 186 fitted take a look at the carby...a Nikki (Niki?) is/was a better option than the original Stromberg/Rochester and fairly easy to fit. Far more reliable and much easier to set the float level...the 186/202 carbys had a tendency for the float arm to bend and this made it difficult to retain the correct mixture balance. Also have a good look at the idle mixture screw...they can become distorted over time and may need to be re-drilled...also makes it difficult to tune at idle unless it is properly seated...!
    Overall however, as you said: simple/reliable and max torque occurs @ or below 2000 rpm!
    cheers

  2. #12
    calker Guest

    Thanks for Carbie info

    I will print and keep all the info and advice i recieve so thanks for taking time out to give it. I am still after a holden straight six engine adaptor kit i thought i had one but turns out maybe not.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Brisbane, Inner East.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    Once you get the 186 fitted take a look at the carby...a Nikki (Niki?) is/was a better option than the original Stromberg/Rochester and fairly easy to fit. Far more reliable and much easier to set the float level...the 186/202 carbys had a tendency for the float arm to bend and this made it difficult to retain the correct mixture balance. Also have a good look at the idle mixture screw...they can become distorted over time and may need to be re-drilled...also makes it difficult to tune at idle unless it is properly seated...!
    Overall however, as you said: simple/reliable and max torque occurs @ or below 2000 rpm!
    cheers
    Much better is to use a Rochester Quadra Jet with one each primary and secondary throat blocked off. You can readily and cheaply buy intake manifolds for red Holdens to take a small four barrel and make an adaptor plate for the Q-Jet out of aluminium plate. Next best is 2 x 1 3/4" SU's.
    URSUSMAJOR

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    darwin, nt
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    The first question has to be - was the Landy originally a six or four cylinder? If it was a four, the front crossmember will have to be cut to clear the radiator. If the original engine wasn't in it when you got it, take a look at the top bellhousing bolt(s). If there is only one top bolt (at 12 o'clock) it was a 4. Two bolts, at about 11 and 1, denote a 6cyl.
    The gearbox mounts on a six are about 4 inches further rearward than a 4cyl, which make them better for retrofitting a Holden six into. The propshafts and firewall differ to suit.
    202s have a longer stroke than 186s (the same bore, though) and therefore have more torque. A Holden-enthusiast friend of mine has told me on several occasions that 202s are notoriously hard on Holden gearboxes, so Land Rover gearboxes will have a really hard time.
    The last thing that comes to mind is your carby. That same friend I just mentioned informed me (once when I was having trouble with timing and idle) that Stromberg carbies from automatic cars have the vacuum advance port drilled in a different place in the throat to make it idle at full advance. Whether this applies to the later Varijet carbs from early Commodores, I couldn't say, but it's something to watch out for.
    As for finding a Holden to Land Rover conversion kit, the best place to try are wrecking yards. Even if they don't have Landies, you never know what loose Holden engines may be wearing. Good luck.

    Dan.
    69 2A 88" pet4, 74 3 109" pet4, 68 2B FC pet6.

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