Rebuilding a Rover V8

Rangier Rover · 30th December 2008, 11:24 PM

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Thanks Mate , Appreciate the offer. it has been said many times in this "thread" , The "Allen Key Bolt" is a Bitch to get out

, well , not anymore ,

7/32" is The correct Size Socket

not 5.5 mm , and certainly not 11/32"

The Bolt head as you can see in the pic below is * cough * "shagged" *cough* and I think It happended , "once upon a time when a Total Novice mechanic in the PennantVille was trying to undo it with a 5.5mm Alen Key

and he managed to do this to it.

But what saved him was Grip-Doctor believe it or not

Some Pics of the Bores on Passenger side...

All I can say is well done

. I have mannny applications for that stuff. I not sure how it works though

Does it freeze things so they shrink?

**Disco_owner** · 30th December 2008, 11:52 PM

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

All I can say is well done

. I have mannny aplications for that stuff. I not sure how it works though

Does it freeze things so they shrink?

not quite , on close inspection, looking from bottom of the Doctor Grip Bottle I can see it's filled with "silver dots" which I'm only assuming are some sort metal shavings , this Combined with the Compund provides a Positive Grip between the 2 metal's surfaces ie The Alen Key Socket and the inside the A/key Screw , All I know is that the S.....t Works.

Rangier Rover · 31st December 2008, 12:18 AM

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

not quite , on close inspection, looking from bottom of the Doctor Grip Bottle I can see it's filled with "silver dots" which I'm only assuming are some sort metal shavings , this Combined with the Compund provides a Positive Grip between the 2 metal's surfaces ie The Alen Key Socket and the inside the A/key Screw , All I know is that the S.....t Works.

Some may not agree but in the past 20 odd yrs I have used something similar to
http://www.bostik.com.au/technical_d...el_Special.pdf

OR
http://www.rlmdistributing.com.au/do...CopperCoat.pdf

on assembly of anything likely to seize and cause greif latter on.

Some discussion may start on so called head gasket sealants soon. I will leave it to the UL experts. I mostly do Diesel here.

**Disco_owner** · 31st December 2008, 10:21 PM

Project is going well as expected

there were a few issues earlier but seems to have been ironed out , I've been down to see BD this morning & dropped off the intake manifolds and both heads to have 'em serviced and shimmed and everything "port matched"

I also wanted the exhaust extractors ports matched which will make some difference,

but my "dilemma" ATM is the extractors on the passenger side won't pull up/out on as they keep fouling on the side of the Block on "extraction" , and can't be pushed down from the side of the Block as the foul on part of the chassis, so "should" I leave it where it is and forget the the whole idea of port matching of the zorst extractors

but if it makes a difference to the performance I'd rather take them out now and drop them off where all head work is getting done.

Are there any suggestions as to "how" I can go about doing this ????

Will The Rust inside the bore on top edge of "cylinder 7" be a problem?

**Disco_owner** · 1st January 2009, 07:32 AM

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Some may not agree but in the past 20 odd yrs I have used something similar to
http://www.bostik.com.au/technical_d...el_Special.pdf

OR
http://www.rlmdistributing.com.au/do...CopperCoat.pdf

on assembly of anything likely to seize and cause greif latter on.

Some discussion may start on so called head gasket sealants soon. I will leave it to the UL experts. I mostly do Diesel here.

The Blokle who lives next door is a semi-retired mechanic of 36 years or so and owned his own work-shop , he once told me I "should" use Anti-Sieze on Bolt Threads on assembly which would make it easier to pull things apart later-on "if" I ever have to take things apart again

BTW I'm thinking about using Brand spanking new Head Bolts and keeping old ones in the draw? would that be a good idea ?

mike 90 RR · 1st January 2009, 09:20 AM

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Will The Rust inside the bore on top edge of "cylinder 7" be a problem?

All tho the picture is deceptive brown .... DO NOT remove this ring of carbon .... to this or any of the other bores .... as it is a carbon build up that acts as a combustion seal

Also in the pic ... I can see carbon stuck between the piston & bore // with a drag line on the bore above it .... Have Tony look at it .. so as to clean out this stuck bit of carbon (between the piston & bore) with some feeler gauges? ... don't do it yourself, as it will help tell a story

Tomorrow ..... Tony will be on your door step .... so A lot of the niggly Q's can be dealt with "on site" .... as some things are fairly hard to explain

Anti Seize or not to Anti Seize ..... This is the Question ...
Some areas require it .... and some areas it would be a disaster

Exhaust bolts are good for it .... Very high temps
Also most of the mongrel bolts that you nearly broke the sockets on

The Power steering pulley bolts ..... NO ... allow them to seize

New Head bolts .... Only if BD or others tells you to ...

Mike

**Traco** · 1st January 2009, 10:32 AM

I assume your engine does not have the later stretch type bolts. If it does they're a no goer for a second use. The non stretch type can be re-used ok, but of course new ones are even better insurance. By far the best option though is to discard the head bolts altogether and fit a set of ARP head studs.

**Disco_owner** · 1st January 2009, 10:50 AM

Originally Posted by Traco

I assume your engine does not have the later stretch type bolts. If it does they're a no goer for a second use. The non stretch type can be re-used ok, but of course new ones are even better insurance. By far the best option though is to discard the head bolts altogether and fit a set of ARP head studs.

Hi Mate; sorry to seem clueless , can you elaborate on the "ARP head studs" , I'm planning on doing do this project "right" , I 'd like to be 100 % sure the correct "Torque settings" on the heads are achieved and seeing some head bolts on close inspection they look to be "heat affected" , " I think that's the term to use"

what are "ARP Head studs" and am willing to give them a go if it means I will get The Correct Torque setting on the Heads.

cheers Khos

**slug_burner** · 1st January 2009, 11:02 AM

ARP head studs (google is your friend)

ARP web site

**PhilipA** · 1st January 2009, 12:05 PM

Khos, I do not think that you can fit the heads down the studs with the engine in the car. I do not know this but common sense suggests that there is no room at the firewall.
Maybe someone can respond who has fitted heads in situ with ARP studs. I would be interested as I think they are a good sealing solution but pretty impractical if you have to take the engine out to repalce head gaskets.

Re bolts. The stuff recommended to me and what I use is not anti seize but bolt sealant. this stops water etc going down the bolt holes and causing them to seize. it is a Holden product and you get it from Holden dealers.
It does prevent you retorquing the heads.

Re extractors. Do not worry about port match. Unless you are having extensive work done on the exhaust ports around the valve bowl there is nothing to be gained. In fact in theory the extractor diameter should be larger than the port to stop gas reversion. You will find that this is the case with a Rover V8..

Regards Philip A

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