edelbrock manifold conversion

**coops71** · 27th December 2008, 03:10 PM

Originally Posted by NOFUSS

drill and tapped a hole used a brass fitting for pipe adapter used 762loctight ithink that was the number liquid teflon type stuff on the thread works better than thread tape

I might give this a go. Where did you source the plate and brass outlet from? Bunnings?

**amtravic1** · 27th December 2008, 05:06 PM

Dont know what the set up is on a 110 but on my ex efi Rangie I did away with that hose altogether and just drilled a small 1/8th hole in the thermostat or remove the little brass flapper thing in the thermostat and make sure that is at the top. All this does is stop air locks in the system. Cheap and easy fix for the problem. It makes no difference to the operation of the thermostat as far as can tell.

Ian

**coops71** · 7th January 2009, 08:00 PM

I've now installed the edelbrock manifold and carby. I made an adapter plate which allows for a coolant bypass to be tapped later on but at this stage I have drilled a 1/8 inch hole in the thermostat. I think the whole bypass is a bit of a con really. If you have a newer car with a constant flow of coolant through the heater then you have constant flow through the manifold. Anyway the 3.5 now goes like stink particularly up top where the old setup would start to suffocate. I'll let you know how it goes offroad before the lpg is installed.

**amtravic1** · 7th January 2009, 08:07 PM

I tried mine without the hole in the thermostat and there was airlocks that caused overheating before the thermostat opened. It needs the by-pass to stop the airlocks it would seem.

Ian

**Lotz-A-Landies** · 7th January 2009, 08:17 PM

Originally Posted by Traco

<snip>... I used a thermo housing off a P6B Rover which has the necessary extra by-pass outlet pipe needed to return coolant to the sytem before the thermostat opens - cost $5 from the wreckers.

Where do you find wreckers of P6B Rovers these days? I thought they had all gone!

Diana

**coops71** · 7th January 2009, 11:00 PM

Originally Posted by amtravic1

I tried mine without the hole in the thermostat and there was airlocks that caused overheating before the thermostat opened. It needs the by-pass to stop the airlocks it would seem.

Ian

Quick examination of the edelbrock manifold shows that the bypass hole and the thermostat hole are both fed by the same chamber. Every coolant orifice is interconnected as I found by pouring water through each port when I first recieved it. The bypass is lower than the thermostat so its a bit strange to expect air to vent at a low point. I reckon the hole in the thermostat would be the biggest help for the airlock. After taking the old manifold off I realised the previous owner had blocked a hose and had essentially no flow through the stock manifold. Oh - and the hose on the stock manifold that is routed underneath can still go underneath despite what I have read.

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