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Thread: Loose TD5 radiator fan pulley??

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Hi TREX,

    Yeah I want to but I've been running eth-bio 100% for a few months now without any dramas. (pulleys/bearings don't count )

    I don't want to change anything just in case it changes the results which will give the nay sayers something to grab onto in the event that somthing stuffs up. Or if nothing goes wrong, they might say "well that's because you blanked off the egr mate" and they'll use the argument that you need to change things in order to run bio.

    I take it you have yours changed? What were the immediate results for you?

    Pete'

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Alice Springs, Australia
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    Pete, I didn't have any noticeable results as my egr valve hadn't started sticking yet however it was full of black sticky soot, and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that having that running back through your engine can't be good for it. Others have said that they have had better breathing and increased power but this only comes if the egr had been faulty.
    Cheers from the Desert
    Rexy
    2000 130 TD5
    Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
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    OK, I can't get this outer race out of the cover and I do not want to pull the entire timing cover off for obvious reasons.

    Have heard that running a weld around the inside of a race will make it shrink. Any thoughts on this? I have a mig and might give this a go.

    Also I thought about using a flywheel puller but the one I have, the centre bolt would have to push against the back of the cover behind the race and I assume that's just a welsh plug so if too much pressure gets applied i imagine it would pop.

    Any other ideas?

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Pennant Hills, Sydney
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    1,415
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    yes welding the inside will shrink the race after that would be to get a die grinder and grind a slot into it also maybe weld a strip oo metal or a bolt across it so you can then use a bar to lever it out??
    disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
    detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.

    In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Pennant Hills, Sydney
    Posts
    1,415
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    oops the oo should be of, a couple of glasses wine did not help
    disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
    detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.

    In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Horsley Park, Sydney
    Posts
    2,939
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frontier1 View Post
    OK, I can't get this outer race out of the cover and I do not want to pull the entire timing cover off for obvious reasons.

    Have heard that running a weld around the inside of a race will make it shrink. Any thoughts on this? I have a mig and might give this a go.

    Also I thought about using a flywheel puller but the one I have, the centre bolt would have to push against the back of the cover behind the race and I assume that's just a welsh plug so if too much pressure gets applied i imagine it would pop.

    Any other ideas?
    I don't think it is good practice welding anything on the TD5, especially with a MIG - to much risk of destroying all sorts of electronic components.

    Erich.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    6,078
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    If you do weld on it, I would disconect the ECU, battery leads and the 3AS unit (immobiliser green box) at least

    They arent that prone to issues with welding but I have heard of a few failures of the 3AS units

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Just a suggestion - If you can heat the timing cover if you have a hot air gun, and if you can get hold of a can of spray freezer - perhaps heat the timing cover and freeze the bearing. I've seen that work before.

    Personally i'd be a little cautious of welding the race - if the hot race expands enough would it distort the timing cover? On my timing cover the new bearing ended up being loose in the cover and seemed to have thrashed itself to bits fairly quickly.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Well I got the race out. I carefully ran a mig weld around the inside of the race then let it cool. then using a small crowbar on the back of the weld ridge I was able to move out the race enough to get a small flywheel puller behind it and extract out the race.

    I've run some 1200 over the inside of the housing where the race sat and it all feels fine.

    Now it's off to the local bearing shop to see what they have to suit. Fingers crossed!

    Oh, yeah, I disconnected the battery, etc. first!

    Cheers, Pete'

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    283
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    Ok, got a replacement bearing for the LR one which was $190. The replacement is a UBC 5206 2RS and set me back $24.50. Hopefully if this happens to someone else, you'll be able to use this part number to save yourself some bucks.

    Everything went back together without a hitch and I'm back up and running until the next thing occurs.

    Thanks to all for the tips, hints and suggestions.

    Cheers,

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