call me pedantic but 90% of the dead engines I get to play with have died because someone didnt do the right thing at some point
the bottom end of the tdi is essentially the same as the 2.25 series donk. even the td5 has similarities AND both are still made from good ole cast iron.
Really?? so the 2.25 became the 2.5 then the 2.5td then the 200tdi just by chaning the head etc...and um what was the power output of the 2.25petrol/diesel and now the 200/300tdi?? is it still "over engineered" lik eit was when it was a 2.25 driving vehicles that weighed less
so long as you leave it the hell alone all landy diesels are over-engineered for what they are ment to do when you start playing with the power output your putting things at risk.
so installing a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust(to reduce back pressure and lower EGT's, installing an upgraded intercooler, to lower EGT's and turning the injector pump up WITHIN REASON, WATCHING EGTS, is a no no.....
on the series you can use either crank in either engine Fozzys running a petrol crank and its now a diesel and since that donk came out of bug 2.0 then went into kermit and now runs in fozzy I have no idea how many Ks that donk did before it was transplanted into bug 2.0 the crank is now also ground undersize running oversize bearings... I know how many K's Ive tortured that donk over.
what rigs are they in, i dont know what a Fozzy or a Kermit is? how much do they weigh and what power output do they have....remember we are talking about a 300tdi not a 2.25 series engine in this thread
the stalling while cold still applies to modern diesels the concept is the same but you get more assistance from your electronic control to stop it it still happens tho.
never had a problem with early 5am starts in winter on the coast, gets down to 4c here...i know thats not really cold, but i alwasy glowed it, started first turn and COULD DRIVE OFF, but as i tow a trailer i ALWAYS let it idel for a min or 2 to get oil up into it...
Most older diesels are petrol blocks or close relatives to petrol blocks. the same applies to new diesels, the chev 6.8l v8 turbo diesel block is shock horror stun amaze the same block as the 6.8l supercharged v8 but with a different timing gear setup so it can drive the injector pump.
yes some are, but not all and most that are have stronger parts like cranks, conrods etc...
on the cooling issue...
If i can take a half assed rebuilt 2.25 over recycled series diesel run it to 135 in the top tank and still not blow it apart even with a dodgy who knows how old radiator from a petrol engine (and its not even the full arid conditions radiator) I think the cooling system is more than adequate and if you manage to actually cook up ANY landrover thats had even semi close to decent attention paid to the cooling system then you have no vehicular sympathy and what your driving has every right to spit the dummy at you.
ok so now your making assumption at how i drive and that i neglect my equipment and have no idea
go ask Rick of Ricks 4WD how i treated my gear.... then come sit besides me for a week and see how i drive before you make statements out of your arse...oh and how much power does your 2.25 make and what is the weight of your rig agian? and before you go telling me that i was over loaded, i was under the manufactures spec everytime and drove according considering i am towing a trailer...also if ir remeber the series rad is a touch bigger than a TDI and it doesnt have a a/c condenser in front of it either...but like my point was the 2.25 produces less power and torque and is probably better built for its size than the TDI but i guess im just stupid for saying that.
on the overfuelling issue... if your diesel is overfueling then something is wrong with it....
so if im driving along the highway, i come to a hill and to maintain my legal road speed of 100km/h i increase the pressure on the accelerator, im adding more fuel right, now if you watch the EGT,s they will rise and i know you will say of coarse, because its doing more work, but there comes a point where it will not burn the fuel as quickly as its added, thats why depending on the conditions you can drop back to 4th and reduce the egts while maintaining your speed....and my point is for people not to go crazy on turning there injector pumps up, as this is a common mod to do with tdi's....but you chose to look at as a mech problem.....
IF you set it at a given set of RPMS and it overfuels the governor will wind it back. IF you mess with that and you overfuel the engine to try and make more power out of it you'll kill it and thats not a new thing... ITs been known about since the ICE was invented....
the southern cross maintenance manuals used to have a cautionary warning about it for their stationary engines.
as for the point not being made the point I was trying to make was, I thought, definatley made and driven home, Diesels have the reputation of lasting longer than petrols because they used to and not because of any magic of engineering but becuase of the nature of the engines, old diesels dont like cold running and in order to specifically eliminate the odds of specifically manufactured as petrol or diesel engine I used an engine block that does both and your comment does little to disprove my statements rather it reiterates them.
i agree, but look at the power output to displacment ratio, compared to modern engines...i know you are not doing that but that was MY point... also go back 20 years and look at the power figures for a n/a diesel 4.5lts and a 4.5ltr petrol... the diesel will probably have more toqure but less power, and some actually do have stronger bottom ends than there petrol counterparts....
Sumating your statement, The diesels were made tougher and made less power so they lasted longer. OR to reword it. Old diesel engines outlasted their petrol brethren
if turbo lag and low off boost power is a problem for you, perhaps learning to drive the vehicle as it was designed to be driven as opposed to tweaking the nipples out of it so that it performs how you want it to instead of as it was designed to do.
so here you again make usumptions about my driving, haven never driven with me let alone met me....and if you call the mods that i did to my truck "tweaking the nipples out of it" you better start messaging a whole heap of guys on this board and tell them there engines are going to die because of what they have done to them and nothing else...
have you drivin a stock defender with a 1.8tonne trailer, in traffic or on the highway.... do you feel that maybe LR could have made first gear lower....
you also fail to make mention of the benefits of modern metallurgy, engineering and machining processes nor do you appear to take into account anywhere (nor has anyone else from what I've read of this thread) that cars are now made down to a cost and not up to a standard. Sure I can spec you a landrover engine that is a sub 3l Turbo Diesel, makes more power and torque than the stock naturally aspirated 4.4l V8 and will do over 1M Km, will function correctly in 60+ degree ambient temperatures and down to -60 as well as being able to run on anything from sweet light crude through to AvTur But...
are you prepared to pay for it?
Reply With QuoteOriginally Posted by Blknight.aus
call me pedantic but 90% of the dead engines I get to play with have died because someone didnt do the right thing at some point
WOW, I thought people got upset about spelling in forums,
Some of it is way over my head thats why I drive old easy to fix cars and bikes
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