2000 D2 hid hi/lo. 4300k or 6000k.

**Larns** · 20th March 2009, 03:51 PM

I probably should have been a little more specific in what I was trying to say. The e-bay ones are alright (I've tried them) as the globes are generaly all made in the same factory. The only issue is back up service with e-bay, if something goes wrong you have to pull them out send them off and re-install the original globes until the kit/part returnes. More of an inconvenience than anything.
It's intreresting hearing people say they don't like the 6000k rated bulbes. I've removed the majority of the 4300k bulbs and replaced them with the 6000k ones because people wern't happy with the light they put out.
Remember that good quality halagon bulbs can be purchased that go up to 4000k rating, so why would you go to all the trouble of wiring in a bunch more wiring with the increased chance of something to go wrong for 300 more kalvin? Just food for thought.
And just so I sound like a hipacrite

I have 4300k headlights bought off e-bay in my 90

they have been in there for two years without a problem. But they were the first set I ever got and installed ,and if anything goes wrong they will be replaced with Bosch ballasts and 6000k lights

**Stuck** · 16th April 2009, 04:00 PM

Thanks heaps for your replies,
I went with 35w 4300k for the headlamps (telescopic and no clearance problems

) and the IPF 800's, the reflector in the spread beam IPF is getting a bit dull too. Fitted them the other day and went out last night and "adjusted" them. The results :
Low beam, Better than the old ones but not quite as good as I expected, ebay kit maybe to blame or maybe just me.
High beam, Very good, well happy.
High beam and spotties together, Electric sunshine !!! so I'm on the lookout for a good spread reflector / lens assy. for an IPF 800 so I can see just how good things can get.
Cheers and thanks again,
Anthony.

mousie · 18th April 2009, 08:04 AM

Since reading this forum. I was back out again alligning to see if I can find a sweeter spot on low beam and ended up lowering slightly. With the ebay kit and telescopic H4 I did note some minor 'wobble' of one of the bulbs on rough terrain. Therefore, I mounted a spacer block from rear of bulb assembly to headlight wall to eliminate this area. Turns out it is in the telescopic part so this may or may not be evident in the cheaper line. Anyone else noticed this?

I was contemplating on removing the factory shield within the headlight unit to see if this part interferes with the new light beam as the HID's have their own but on second thought, they are really good. After having them at 5K, don't feel the need to go greater than 4300K unless you check out a mates setup first otherwise you will be disappointed at the difference between colour chart and light. i.e. the blue is noticeable against other drivers at 6K.

**Disco** · 23rd April 2009, 07:30 PM

I wonder how many people have read the relevant ADR's on HID lighting?

5000K is the highest colour temperature light you can legally fit for onroad use in any light be it headlights or spotties.

**Newdog** · 23rd April 2009, 07:44 PM

I'm about to fit a set of IPF driving lights up to my 2000 Td5 D2. Have heard that generic driving light looms can cause problems. Can anyone confirm? And if so, any recommendations on where to source a compatable set up? Cheers.

mousie · 23rd April 2009, 07:55 PM

Newdog

Some of the best wiring looms I've seen are the ones you buy and make yourself. Very good quality wire, relays and fuses. Short runs direct to battery via relay and fuse. The aim of course is to have the smallest voltage drop at point of entry to bulb.

Cut to length and terminated correctly always wins and usually cheaper than aftermarket looms.

Cheers

It'sNotWorthComplaining! · 23rd April 2009, 08:29 PM

I'm confused,

What are the problems with Clearance and what are telescopic HIDs.

mousie · 23rd April 2009, 08:58 PM

I could not put the bulb assembly in with headlighs installed, had to remove the lens units by popping out, install and refit lens which is all to easy.

H4 High / Low is one gas tube bulb that is driven by solenoid, and a loud firm one at that to achieve the high / low.

All depends on brand model i suspect and the wobble part is the tolerance within the acutator.

Cheers

**350RRC** · 23rd April 2009, 09:06 PM

Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

I'm confused,

What are the problems with Clearance and what are telescopic HIDs.

Hi,

With HID globes there are two basic ways of getting hi and low beam.

1. Two separate bulbs of xenon in the same tube at a different distance from the reflector. I think lo is generally on all the time with most, then hi gets lit when you hit hi beam. The prob with this is that there is a bit of a flash when the gas lights up and it takes a couple of secs to get to full brightness.

2. Sliding or telescopic type (which I have had for over a year) use one bulb of xenon which is on all the time your headlights are on. Uses a solenoid to move the gas bulb in and out of the focal point of the reflector to give lo / hi beam. The solenoid makes the globe maybe 4cm longer which is where the clearance issue might arise. (needs space behind the reflector)

They leave halogen bulbs in the last century either way. Mine don't wobble at all

HTH, DL

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