Thread: R380 oil cooler

not much, the oil cooler in most plant opens at about that and they have much bigger and better oil coolers than anything LR have ever put on.

Busmaster starts cooling the auto at 75 from memory (I will have to recheck the EMEI's on that, not even the guys in the sand pit have cooked a trans yet)

ID have a look at the oil you were using before the cooler, you might find that changing back to 15/40 or 20/50 engine oil might just net you some cheaper and safer results than fitting up a cooler.

Of course if you were doing a lot of heavy towing or protracted high speed running at high ambient temps then ID be more concerned about a cooler on a manual.

From memory I just might happen to have 2 ford Auto coolers you can have for the want of picking them up (I know Ive got the pair but I cant recall their condition) and I know that at least one of golf club mowers Ive got to junk has a decent hydraulics cooler I dont yet have a plan for.

Well took the nose cone off the 110 and looked to see where I could mount the range rover oil cooler I have. My initial thought was to mount it on the chaise cross member and a trial fit shows it will fit between the radiator and the aircon.

Having closer look as I hate drilling holes I’ve now decided to run a bit of angle across the lower aircon frame picking up the bracket and bolts that a re already there. This will put the oil cooler neatly between the air con and the radiator.

I recon this will only, if any, impede the air flow to the lower radiator very slightly. Given I’m going to seal up the sides etc of the radiator to force the air through the radiator there will overall be no loss.

I’ve also decided that I’ll get two hoses made up to pick up the metal oil lines from the rubber in line join and take the oil to the cooler and return. I’ll also get a length of hose made up with fittings to join the metal oil lines just in case of a cooler failure

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

not much, the oil cooler in most plant opens at about that and they have much bigger and better oil coolers than anything LR have ever put on.

Busmaster starts cooling the auto at 75 from memory (I will have to recheck the EMEI's on that, not even the guys in the sand pit have cooked a trans yet)

ID have a look at the oil you were using before the cooler, you might find that changing back to 15/40 or 20/50 engine oil might just net you some cheaper and safer results than fitting up a cooler.
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The problem with engine oils of that viscosity is that a 15W-40 is equivalent to an 75W-90, and a 20W-50 is equivalent to an SAE 80W-110.

Syntrans is roughly equivalent to a 5W-30, albeit a relatively heavy 30, (eg, Castrol Edge 5W-30) whereas MTF 94 and Redline MTL are equivalent to light 5w-30's. (something like Mobil 1)
ATF's are equivalent to0/5W-20's in engine oils.

Cheers re the coolers, but I have a Davies Craig turbulator plate one here I used on the C6 in my old Effie.
It was staggering how much more efficient it was than a serpentine coil and fin B&M type cooler even though it had 1/2 the face area.
The only downsied is the tube inlet/outlet aren't big enough IMO, so I wasn't going to try it.

that restriction size (and the diameter of the internal tubes) is what makes it more effecient.

Try a basic pour point test on your oils some factors of 15/40 are the same as 80/90 others are different, as far as the box is concerned the 15/40 is easier to shift around than the 80/90 which is why the lt95 runs happily on engine oil as opposed to gear oil. The r380 has much the same pump but its in a different spot. you could always try a single weight oil as reccomended for detroit donks, mowers and motorbikes or a quality 0/30 or 5/30wt engine oil.

Dave, gear oil as in diff oil will never shift as well as a dedicated manual trans fluid. Manual Trans Fluids or Transaxle fluids have the correct friction modifiers for synchro action, it's much more than just viscosity.
An 80W-90 diff oil will never shift anywhere near as well as a 75W-90 fluid like Castrol Syntrax, Torco RTF, Motul Gear 300, Redline MT90, etc.
The first three also make bloody good conventional diff oils too, but aren't suitable for LSD's.

Engine oils used to be used as they were avaialble, but their frictional characteristics aren't ideal, often the friction coefficient decreases sharply as the clutch hubs get close to the same speed, (slip) resulting in dog clash.
They also tend to shear quickly in service.

Is the Td5 R380 thermostat likely to play up,
I just fitted a cooler and took the car for an absolute caning up the Mt Donnabuang road, EGT's well over 600 in 4th and smelling nice and hot when I got to the gate.

The oil cooler is still stone cold, both inlet and outlet, the gearbox itself is fairly hot to touch.

Ambient temp only 20 deg.

Originally Posted by rick130

Yes, they get bloody hot and the R380 only has a limited oil capacity.

They sure do..

Without wishing to hijack the thread, I have an oil question; We've recently fitted an AshTrans 380 to my son's D1. I couldn't get SynTrans, and have filled it with Nulon's SynAtf. Anyone have any qualms about this?