Thread: td5 Clutch adjusting

Originally Posted by jamieluck

Fellow Land Rover lovers!!

About at the end of my tether!!! Very stupidly got a backyard mechanic to put a new clutch kit in my 1999 defender Extreme. Was going to do myself but just dont have the room. Has given the car back to me but clutch is not working well.....have bled all the air out of the system....have put a new Master Cylinder in as it was leaking. BUT when you have the clutch fully depressed it is like the clutch is still not fully activated and feels like it needs to go in more. So when you trry to change gears (especially at higher revs) it is almost impossible to change through the gears. you also only need to JUST start letting the pedal out and the car starts moving. Is there anywhere other than the master cylinder that you can adjust the clutch??

PLEASE HELP ME I M AT MY WITS END AND NEED TO HAVE IT DONE FOR EASTER...THANKS HEAPS.

Jamie,

Is your clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal when released?
If not, then you can adjust the pedal stop on the pedal box to raise or lower the pedal accordingly.
Then you need to take the top off the pedal box and you can adjust the pushrod length to achieve about 10 to 15 mm of pedal freeplay before the pushrod starts to move the piston in(Get someone to do this while you look in from the top) This should give exactly the right amount of clutch actuation required, if this still isn't right and you are SURE there is no air in the system, then it sounds like the box has to come back out and you need to check for faults/ problems

JC

Hi, like Justin says with the adjustment, but make sure you have bled ALL the air out of the system. I connect a tube to the slave bleeder nipple, crack it and pump the fluid around fot a bit - or just waste a bottle of fluid. The fluid seems to stay milky (aerated) for a while.

Erich

Originally Posted by Bundalene

Hi, like Justin says with the adjustment, but make sure you have bled ALL the air out of the system. I connect a tube to the slave bleeder nipple, crack it and pump the fluid around fot a bit - or just waste a bottle of fluid. The fluid seems to stay milky (aerated) for a while.

Erich

Good point Erich. Pumping it through the system at a moderate rate will help to stop so much airation, but too slow won't force air out.

JC

Was the Slave cylinder replaced when the clutch was done, I'd bet this is the problem, it was for me.

Baz.

Originally Posted by justinc

Jamie,

Is your clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal when released?
If not, then you can adjust the pedal stop on the pedal box to raise or lower the pedal accordingly.
Then you need to take the top off the pedal box and you can adjust the pushrod length to achieve about 10 to 15 mm of pedal freeplay before the pushrod starts to move the piston in(Get someone to do this while you look in from the top) This should give exactly the right amount of clutch actuation required, if this still isn't right and you are SURE there is no air in the system, then it sounds like the box has to come back out and you need to check for faults/ problems

JC

Will raising the pedal height give earlier disengagement, or do you have to go into the pedal box to adjust freeplay.
Can I do this from under the dash or do I have to go in through the top to adjust pedal height?
Looks like a right pain in the bum to adjust
My clutch works fine, I would just like it to disengage earlier, I find I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to get a clean gear change.
I think it's made worse from driving a Road Ranger all night where I only use half the pedal or less.
For those who don't know, you have a clutch brake at the end of the travel, when the clutch is fully deppressed so you can select low gear without grating but you never fully deppress the clutch under normal driving only at stand still.