Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: replacing swivel pin bearing today....any tips ??

  1. 16th April 2009, 07:04 AM #1
    NatB
    NatB is offline Fossicker
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    19
    Total Downloaded
    0

    replacing swivel pin bearing today....any tips ??

    Hi all,

    REgarding my 97 tdi Disco -

    I'm going to replace my swivel pin bearings , adjusted preload / removed all shims a month or so ago to help a front end shudder issue, it's gradually crept back so now I figure it's time to change the bearings.

    Any tips or advice on this job would be greatley appreciated - have got the book here, it looks pretty straightforward but we'll see.

    Regards Nat
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 16th April 2009, 08:20 AM #2
    discowhite's Avatar
    discowhite
    discowhite is offline TopicToaster
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Padstow NSW
    Posts
    4,501
    Total Downloaded
    0
    nope, its pretty simple, nothing really out of the ordinary..
    with new bearings, start with all the shims you have, i needed around .040'' for both sides in the 90 and the ute.

    cheers phil
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 16th April 2009, 08:34 AM #3
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Simple job ... So long as you have that highly sophisticated tool, Fish scales

    Mike
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 16th April 2009, 10:05 AM #4
    NatB
    NatB is offline Fossicker
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    19
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Simple job ... So long as you have that highly sophisticated tool, Fish scales

    Mike

    Thanks mate
    being a fishing guide , I should be right then

    Will let you guys know how it goes ...

    Regards Nat
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 16th April 2009, 01:26 PM #5
    PhilipA
    PhilipA is offline Swaggie Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well, one trick is to remember to put the big seal on before you check the preload without the seal.
    Hang the seal on the join of the axle while you do the preload.
    Regards Philip A
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 16th April 2009, 01:30 PM #6
    brianwood's Avatar
    brianwood
    brianwood is offline Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Yeppoon, QLD
    Posts
    293
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Philip,
    Do you need to disconnect the tierod end to measure the preload accurately?
    Last edited by brianwood; 16th April 2009 at 01:30 PM. Reason: cant spell
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 16th April 2009, 01:31 PM #7
    PhilipA
    PhilipA is offline Swaggie Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yes.
    Regards Philip A
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  8. 16th April 2009, 02:20 PM #8
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,500
    Total Downloaded
    0
    a bigger tip is to check the movement before you put the seal on....
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  9. 16th April 2009, 05:41 PM #9
    NatB
    NatB is offline Fossicker
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    19
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for the tips guys

    Pretty simple , biggest pain was refitting both circlips without circlip pliers....

    Found water in RHS and no (or very little) oil in that side - also rust and wear on bearing.

    LHS had a little water and about 100mls of a grease /oil mix ....

    One issue - couldnt do the RHS pre load as I couldnt remove the tie rod end ( bolt spinning), will try that again tomorrow.

    Went for a drive this arvo and it feel much better, especially @ speed over the bumps !!

    Thanks again for the tips

    Nat
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  10. 16th April 2009, 06:29 PM #10
    discowhite's Avatar
    discowhite
    discowhite is offline TopicToaster
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Padstow NSW
    Posts
    4,501
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by NatB View Post
    Thanks for the tips guys

    Pretty simple , biggest pain was refitting both circlips without circlip pliers....

    Found water in RHS and no (or very little) oil in that side - also rust and wear on bearing.

    LHS had a little water and about 100mls of a grease /oil mix ....

    One issue - couldnt do the RHS pre load as I couldnt remove the tie rod end ( bolt spinning), will try that again tomorrow.

    Went for a drive this arvo and it feel much better, especially @ speed over the bumps !!

    Thanks again for the tips

    Nat
    if its the taper spinning, use a pry bar to force the tie rod back into the taper and then undo the nut. this is a good reason to not use the nyloc nuts that come with the new tie rods

    cheers phil
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
« Silicone Coolant Hoses | 300 tdi cutting out at peak revs »

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!