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Thread: replacing swivel pin bearing today....any tips ??

  1. 16th April 2009, 07:04 AM #1
    NatB
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    replacing swivel pin bearing today....any tips ??

    Hi all,

    REgarding my 97 tdi Disco -

    I'm going to replace my swivel pin bearings , adjusted preload / removed all shims a month or so ago to help a front end shudder issue, it's gradually crept back so now I figure it's time to change the bearings.

    Any tips or advice on this job would be greatley appreciated - have got the book here, it looks pretty straightforward but we'll see.

    Regards Nat
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  2. 16th April 2009, 08:20 AM #2
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    discowhite
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    nope, its pretty simple, nothing really out of the ordinary..
    with new bearings, start with all the shims you have, i needed around .040'' for both sides in the 90 and the ute.

    cheers phil
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  3. 16th April 2009, 08:34 AM #3
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Simple job ... So long as you have that highly sophisticated tool, Fish scales

    Mike
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  4. 16th April 2009, 10:05 AM #4
    NatB
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Simple job ... So long as you have that highly sophisticated tool, Fish scales

    Mike

    Thanks mate
    being a fishing guide , I should be right then

    Will let you guys know how it goes ...

    Regards Nat
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  5. 16th April 2009, 01:26 PM #5
    PhilipA
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    Well, one trick is to remember to put the big seal on before you check the preload without the seal.
    Hang the seal on the join of the axle while you do the preload.
    Regards Philip A
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  6. 16th April 2009, 01:30 PM #6
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    brianwood
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    Philip,
    Do you need to disconnect the tierod end to measure the preload accurately?
    Last edited by brianwood; 16th April 2009 at 01:30 PM. Reason: cant spell
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  7. 16th April 2009, 01:31 PM #7
    PhilipA
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    Yes.
    Regards Philip A
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  8. 16th April 2009, 02:20 PM #8
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    Blknight.aus
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    a bigger tip is to check the movement before you put the seal on....
    Dave

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  9. 16th April 2009, 05:41 PM #9
    NatB
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    Thanks for the tips guys

    Pretty simple , biggest pain was refitting both circlips without circlip pliers....

    Found water in RHS and no (or very little) oil in that side - also rust and wear on bearing.

    LHS had a little water and about 100mls of a grease /oil mix ....

    One issue - couldnt do the RHS pre load as I couldnt remove the tie rod end ( bolt spinning), will try that again tomorrow.

    Went for a drive this arvo and it feel much better, especially @ speed over the bumps !!

    Thanks again for the tips

    Nat
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  10. 16th April 2009, 06:29 PM #10
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    discowhite
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    Quote Originally Posted by NatB View Post
    Thanks for the tips guys

    Pretty simple , biggest pain was refitting both circlips without circlip pliers....

    Found water in RHS and no (or very little) oil in that side - also rust and wear on bearing.

    LHS had a little water and about 100mls of a grease /oil mix ....

    One issue - couldnt do the RHS pre load as I couldnt remove the tie rod end ( bolt spinning), will try that again tomorrow.

    Went for a drive this arvo and it feel much better, especially @ speed over the bumps !!

    Thanks again for the tips

    Nat
    if its the taper spinning, use a pry bar to force the tie rod back into the taper and then undo the nut. this is a good reason to not use the nyloc nuts that come with the new tie rods

    cheers phil
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