Start with a wheel balance ... Then you can progress to further checks
Aslo swivel preload can cause the steering wheel shakes
Front uni could be shot .. but would not assoiciate it with a steering wheel shake
Just finished putting a new Ashcrofts LT85 into my 110. I also swapped the LT230 from my Disco into the 110 after putting new seals in. The problem is now that I have this vibration that happens around 80kmh. It seems very similar to the vibration I had in my Disco which originally had the LT230. The 110 previously had no vibrations at all. The bearings all seemed ok but Im not so sure about the front output flange. The vibration feels like a front wheel out of balance with steering wheel vibration too. Anyone else had this problem? By the way i got the LT85 exchange from Ashcrofts including freight for $2200. Similar prices for R380s if I remember rightly.
Start with a wheel balance ... Then you can progress to further checks
Aslo swivel preload can cause the steering wheel shakes
Front uni could be shot .. but would not assoiciate it with a steering wheel shake
I had a vibration at around 80ks as well after just a 40mm lift. It was the front propshaft. I could feel it through the whole car. I changed it for a d2 one but yours might just be out of phase. If the front prop is phased straight then they shake at about this speed. Off the top of my head for front- prop the front yoke should trail the back yoke by 45deg. Better confirm that. It is 45deg but which way? Im betting one of the next posts will tell you how it goes.![]()
Your onto it ...... but I believe that it is about 20 degrees or "2 splines out"
But you have to have the propshaft balanced "out of phase" ... you can't just pull it apart and "out of phase it" ... the excess "weights" on your shaft will give a hint on the reason "why"
Mike
![]()
My local service guys reckons its a really common cause of shakes. A lot of guys who dont know better see them set out of line and put them straight. Another mechanic who used to work on my car was stoked that he thought he fixed a vibe I had by doing this. He just made it worse, and was ****ed off when I asked him to put it back. He would not believe me when I told him it was supposed to be like that. Land Rover even issued a service bulletin about it.
I got under the car today briefly and found that the drive flange on the transfer case has some small movement(didn't notice it when I put the new seal in). It is possible it is the drive flange and not the bearing I hope. Also I think the front uni and/or the diff needs attention as their is movement there too. A clunk clunk happens when moving slowly from the front. ust waiting for the whole thing to let loose. Never was apparent until I changed transfer cases. I was wondering if my Disco 1 v8 diff will pull out and slide into the 110 v8 axle?
I have vibrations at 80KM/h too. Goes through the whole car. You push the clutch and its all good again so don't think it's tyres.
Matt
I took the front prop shaft off today. The flange from the front diff has some slight movement in it. The u joint closest to the transfer case has no twist free play but has some sideways movement(it is shagged). Luckily my Disco front prop shaft is identical to the 110 and is in good condition so I will put in in tomorrow. The vibration is still there with the front prop off. Ive been driving around with diff lock on and just the rear shaft . This has really exacerbated clunking I had. All power going through one shaft obviously. At crawling speed there is a clunk clunk which sounds like something is about to give. Im guess u joint behind hand brake drum is shagged. Also - are the rover diff assemblies in front and back of the disco identical? The rear will be easier to remove and put into the 110. Cheers or any advice.
So far as I know the front and rear diffs are the same in a disco, def90 and classic. V8 110 and i think 90s had four pin fronts and 110 had the sals rear. After 94 they all went to 24 spline. so I dont know about the compatibility with disco diffs.
Hmm..... just noticed that with the rear prop off that it is perfectly in phase.Went for a drive with missing rear prop and vibration is substantially less but still just there. Got some new unis even though the old ones seem ok. I'll change them while the rear prop is out and think I'll change the rear transfer case output bearing. I new I should have done this while I had the transer case out
.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks