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Thread: disk brake upgrade for defenders

  1. #11
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    Thanks for reminding me TwoUp, forgot to add that the Ferodo 4WD pads squeal on the rear like a banshee with a reasonable amount of dirt road use.

    I used to be seven clicks from the bitumen and they'd be squealing by the time I got home, only having one km of dirt now they are OK, but a reasonable drive on the dirt and they squeal.

  2. #12
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    hey guys.......the drilled rotors look sexy.......

    and thats pretty much it......cross drilling doesnt help all that much with the braking.......
    the way i see it is....where there is a hole.....there is no surface area......which to me means less braking........


    slotted rotors actually help with braking as mentioned in an earlier post......
    by allowing the gases to escape from between the pad and rotor.....
    and ventilated will help with the cooling.........


    you already have 4 pot calipers as standard on a fender......
    if you paint them red.....i think they work better.......

    or is that only on wrx......?

  3. #13
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    We drive bricks. Just point the thing into the wind.... she'll stop.

  4. #14
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    Just to add you wont get 35's engineered in Qld. I think a 3" lift will be pushing it too.-------------------

    oh ****. but i thought if you worked with the engineer told him your plans kept him in the loop you will. just not rock up on the day and say
    "approve this?"
    i had a friend that had a 5" lifted patrol that got yellow birdied, then went engineered it and was back on the road soon afterwards.......... has times changed since then (2005). i plan to do it right, ext brake lines, bump stop panhard rod, new radius & trailing arms, brakes etc or not?

    thanks rick130 bendix was what i was thinking....... just really sick of the brake dust, and want something better cause its going taller.

    cheers geck

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by geckos View Post
    Just to add you wont get 35's engineered in Qld. I think a 3" lift will be pushing it too.-------------------

    oh ****. but i thought if you worked with the engineer told him your plans kept him in the loop you will. just not rock up on the day and say
    "approve this?"
    i had a friend that had a 5" lifted patrol that got yellow birdied, then went engineered it and was back on the road soon afterwards.......... has times changed since then (2005). i plan to do it right, ext brake lines, bump stop panhard rod, new radius & trailing arms, brakes etc or not?

    thanks rick130 bendix was what i was thinking....... just really sick of the brake dust, and want something better cause its going taller.

    cheers geck
    Check with your engineer what limitations there are first. They dont mind if you are going to use them ( the engineer) when its done.
    My engineer said late last year there are national rules being legislated now.

    Regards,
    David

  6. #16
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    Changing rotors will help them work consistently, but if you want to stop harder you need either more line pressure or bigger pistons in the calipers.
    Basically more clamping force.

    Landrover have calipers with 46mm pistons inside, check your existing calipers to see if they have 46 or 41.3mm pistons. Going from 41.3-46 gives you 25% more clamping force which can stop you 25% harder.

  7. #17
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by geckos View Post
    then i will go for the slotted.

    what about pads any recommendations?? i was thinking bendix......

    geck
    Hi Gecko,

    I have DBA slotted rotors on the front of a 74 RRC with Mintex pads from Paddocks. Very pleased with how the combination works. Pads worked out cheap even with freight.

    cheers, DL

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