Start by getting a manual (on CD) from the bloke who runs this site.
I reckon the right one might be this one: Dave's Interesting Things - LANDYCD
Less than $20 so a good bargain.
HTH
David
I'm the new boy on the site, having just pulled a 79 (ish) model SWB out of a paddock. Once I evicted the wild life, it was not in too bad shape. A petrol 4 pot with original engine but no distributor. I have one coming and I am practical but not a mechanic, so how do I get the timing of the new dizzy in sync with the engine?![]()
Start by getting a manual (on CD) from the bloke who runs this site.
I reckon the right one might be this one: Dave's Interesting Things - LANDYCD
Less than $20 so a good bargain.
HTH
David
If you go to the SeriesIII forum Series 3 - Australian Land Rover Owners in the Sticky's section at the top you can dowload the manuals, it's in 7 parts, Regards Frank.
the easy way is to just drop the thing in so that the vac advance unit is in a position that you can easily plumb it up, adjust the manual adjustment, and still do up all the retaining bolts on the dizzy.
Remove the Plugs and leads then turn the engine over till the #1 pot is at TDC (with the rocker cover off pot 4's valves will be on the rock) between the compression and power strokes.
remove the cap and note the position of the rotor
rotate the dizzy until the rotor points to one (it doesnt matter which) of the 4 outer lead towers on the cap. This is now the #1 firing position
turn the engine over with the crank handle 1/2 a turn and note the position of the rotor this is the #3 firing the next pair of 1/2 turns reveals plugs 2+4 respectively.
This gives you your coarse timing and if all is well it will probabley start and run like that allowing you to "ear" the engine into tune. (once you've got the plugs and leads on)
to set the coarse timing turn the engine in small fractions for nearly 1/2 a turn more and you will not the timing marks coming into alignment. once they are in alignement adjust the dizzy so that the points are just opening and lock the dizzy off. (theres 2 styles of timing markers, 1 is a scaled set of marks in degrees and the other is just a pointer that should be in the correct static advance position)
I usually start off at about 10-12 degrees of advance and then ear it in what your'e aiming at at the end of the day is a dead smooth idle but that also means you need to do
the valve adjustments
the carby tuning
the fine adjustments on the timing and electrics.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thanks very much Dave the dizzy is still in the post but I will follow your directions and let you know what happens. BTB what does TDC stand for, scuse my ignorance?
hey i have a series 3 swb petrol aswell have to restore it a bit
correct, well spotted. that would have been a fun engine to try and get running.....
firing order is 1342 it should be stamped on the manifold anyway.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
no probs......just double checking.......
some older engines had funny and strange firing orders......
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