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Thread: Mag wheel bead breaker

  1. #41
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    My P38 came with a steel rim as a spare. Is it a sensible exercise to get a set and set them up with off road tyres ?

    Deano

  2. #42
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    only if you want to have a set of daily road rubber and an expiditionary or play set of tyres.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    only if you want to have a set of daily road rubber and an expiditionary or play set of tyres.
    This is exactly what I have in mind. Currently SWMBO's D2 has a set of road tyres on the factory 8" alloys and a set of Cooper ST's on a set of '99 Disco alloys as "touring wheels".

    After reading the doom and gloom of tyre change on D2 type alloys I wondered if it would be simpler all round to ditch the touring alloys and replace them with steel rims. At the time I bought them I didn't realise that there were factory steel rims to fit available.

    What is interesting though, after reading of the difficulties changing tyres on the road I took a couple of different Disco alloy rims around to a mates place, with a box of VB, and told him of the issues. Out came his tyre pliers and the first bead was broken in about 3 minutes, he recons it took that long 'cos I'd psyched him into thinking it would be hard. The other side took less than 1 minute and the second rim also took less than a minute. He didn't bother with the other side as he reckoned I was a dill in thinking it was hard. So we sat down and drank the beer. I was staggered and confused. He reckons it's the easiest box of beer he's ever earnt.

    I had a go and didn't find it difficult even though I'd never used tyre pliers before. What am I missing here ?

    What was dis-concerting was setting the bead on re-inflation, no room for softies here, keep pumping until the bead sets, about 60 psi on one rim. Talk about going off like a rifle shot and that's with copious quantities of soap.

    Deano

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    What was dis-concerting was setting the bead on re-inflation, no room for softies here, keep pumping until the bead sets, about 60 psi on one rim. Talk about going off like a rifle shot and that's with copious quantities of soap.
    Did you try a spray of ether and a match?
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Did you try a spray of ether and a match?
    Never been game.

    Deano

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    Never been game.

    Deano
    Neither have I!
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #47
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    Looks like a sound design but slow to use. I bought a set of tyre pliers and am very disappointed. On soft TR7 rims they make a real mess. On a 4wd tyre you need to be pretty strong to use them effectively. I have not been able to get tyres of the RRC three spoke with them. The highlift jack will not shift them either, even at the engine end of the car I can lift the whole car and not break the bead! On a cross country trip when the group had 14 punctures a R&R beadbreaker never failed; but it is also slow. Has any one got a home grown one that uses a bottle jack?

  8. #48
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    the bottle jack will make no difference unsless you make a frame to hold the tyre and thats going to be bulky.

    if you can lift the car on the tyre with a highlift you'll do it with the bottle jack too.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bilbo View Post
    Looks like a sound design but slow to use. I bought a set of tyre pliers and am very disappointed. On soft TR7 rims they make a real mess. On a 4wd tyre you need to be pretty strong to use them effectively. I have not been able to get tyres of the RRC three spoke with them. The highlift jack will not shift them either, even at the engine end of the car I can lift the whole car and not break the bead! On a cross country trip when the group had 14 punctures a R&R beadbreaker never failed; but it is also slow. Has any one got a home grown one that uses a bottle jack?
    Exactly, My tyre fitter bloke reckons the last set I sent him nearly broke his machine

    I have a set of tubeless Wolf rims to go on next for this reason. Much as I like the alloys and NEVER had an issue with them for any other reason, struggling with changing a tyre in high ambient temps etc doesn't fill me with joy.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #50
    KungFooMASTA Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Bundalene View Post
    I notice some members are having issues with bead breakers for their Alloy wheels. I faced the same delimma and made my own. I hope this post helps.

    The current set-up is for the Defender Alloys, but I also made a second one for the Series2 rims.

    I have tested this a fair bit and the concept works well. It is most important to always break the bead at the valve position first.

    A few pics paint a thousand words










    A good set of tyre levers is essential (This one is off a S2 Disco)


    Main part of the unit attached to the boat trailer, when yowing.



    Most repairs can be carried out with tyre plugs without breaking the bead - good emergency repairs, but for larger staked radial patches inside the tyre work well.

    The only downside is that the unit weighs 12kgs (without the tyre levers), but this is well less than half the weight of an additional spare

    Erich
    Did anyone save the pics from this. I want to build one of these tools. Thanks.

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