Thread: fitting a trutrack to the front

It isn't difficult to install (I did my rear one) but it is a bit fiddly.

You will need a dial indicator on a magnetic base and a good torque wrench. It is critical that you get the backlash and bearing preload correct.

If you aren't confident just get it installed.
If you are handy with the spanners remove the diff centre yourself, that will save some dollars.

450 is a bit steep.....for me as i can do them myself. the hardest part is getting the center out

easiest way on a D1/rrc/defender is to unbolt the swivells from the diff to get the center out, saves having to pull the bearings/cv's out.
this way it can be done in 2 hrs EASY

cheers phil

Originally Posted by discowhite

450 is a bit steep.....for me as i can do them myself. the hardest part is getting the center out

easiest way on a D1/rrc/defender is to unbolt the swivells from the diff to get the center out, saves having to pull the bearings/cv's out.
this way it can be done in 2 hrs EASY

cheers phil

Hmmmm, and Padstow is not that far from me.

Are you interested in a joint venture?

might be if you brought me the center...

cheers phil

Having a trutrac myself, (Two in fact - and miraculously they work fine as I put them in ) there are some extra bits you should know.
Search ' So you want a trutrac' and you'll find the long thread on the orders from last year. In that thread, towards the end , you'll find the part numbers for the diff bearings you will need as the trutrac generally is sold bare. Pressing them on is pretty easy if you have a press or similar. That way you keep your old diff center as a spare. A new pinon seal is optional but generally a good idea. And to get the swivels off at the axle requires a 12 point ring spanner ( 14mm or 9/16) or a short socket as space is a bit tight. I opted taking the cv's out, and whilst DW is right that this method is longer, you get to inspect and re-grease the cv's at the same time. Again, if you search, you will find the various grease combinations that fellow members use for that purpose. ( It has to be semi fluid in nature - I used a 50/50 mix of Moreys oil stabilser and standard bearing grease and it ends up like honey on a cold day ).

The only way a trutrac makes itself known on the road is when turning corners - the steering is more self-centreing. Not unpleasant but it is a change.

Enjoy your trutrac - I do.

Interesting.


I had a true track front and full Detroit locker in the rear on my 200TDI disco. Off road fabulous. On road going around a round, round - about’s at low speed I had to clutch it as the vehicle would shudder, I presume as the lockers “ratcheted”.

You blokes haven’t suffered the same symptoms. If this problem has been cured I’d seriously consider putting the full Detroit locker on the back and the ARB front.

Well I was feeling flush as I was going to save some $$ by removing the diff myself, so I got the price of upgraded axles, so far not too bad. Then the bad news came.

Upgraded axles on original CV's not a good idea. However I found out that there are a couple of different types of upgraded axles, ones for original CV's and one for upgraded CV's.

As I can not afford to replace the whole lot at the same time as installing the TruTrac, and installing the TruTrac and slowly improving the rest is not an option I have a dilemma.

Do I install a TruTrac at the front and hope the rest of the front drive train is not too warn that it will last for a couple of years before I have to pay someone to upgrade it, or do I put a TruTrac in the rear with the understanding that I'll be upgrading the rear axles (which I think I can do myself) in the near future?

Well I've just read my own post.

And it looks like the sensible thing to do would be to put a TruTac in the back