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Thread: TD5 turbo screech? on acceleration

  1. #1
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    TD5 turbo screech? on acceleration

    Had a noise on my '00 D2 td5 that I thought was drive belt squeal, had a suspect viscous fan anyway. Replace both v/fan and drive belt yesterday. Fan now behaving properly but the squeal/screech is still there on initial take off.

    I'm now suspecting the turbo impleller may be rubbing on the housing, but noise is only on initial take up of throttle and after a few seconds of accelleration the noise goes away. Almost as if the impeller has a 'wobble' then once spinning up to speed and centrifugal forces working it balances/aligns again.

    Has anyone had similiar experience or advice to share? Have also heard the exhaust mainfold can cause similiar noise if leaking, but no signs of this. Nil affect on performance as yet, bah the shreeking noise taking off from the lights!

  2. #2
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    Look under the heat shield with a torch, or better still remove it and take a butchers crook at the end studs, and any evidence of black soot around number 1 and 5 ports. I will be very suprised if the manifold is NOT the problem.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
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  3. #3
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    Yep - almost certainly the exhaust manifold gasket. I had the exact same symptoms.

  4. #4
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    Other posability is a leaking intercooler hose.
    Andrew
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  5. #5
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    I had the exact same thing happen when my exhaust manifold went, i'll vote for that...

  6. #6
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    Thanks Gents. I removed the heat shield and inspected studs and gasket. Bith upper and lower studs closest to the front are absent. Found half a stud lying in a crevice further down the block, it has sheared off. Now the fun job of extracting the old studs... At first glance looks like I need to remove A/C compressor etc to gain enough access to drill a remove. Anyone who played this game before care to elaborate on the best way forward and any pitfalls they experienced? Cheers.

  7. #7
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    Yes it is best to move the ac out of the way.
    Be gentle when removing.
    While your at it do the manifold mods. That is elongate the holes in the manifold and some also cut the ribs between the ports.
    It would also be worth checking the manifold to see if it has warped.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newdog View Post
    Thanks Gents. I removed the heat shield and inspected studs and gasket. Bith upper and lower studs closest to the front are absent. Found half a stud lying in a crevice further down the block, it has sheared off. Now the fun job of extracting the old studs... At first glance looks like I need to remove A/C compressor etc to gain enough access to drill a remove. Anyone who played this game before care to elaborate on the best way forward and any pitfalls they experienced? Cheers.
    The real issue with these studs is that although they are HT rated, they seem to 'work harden' and are very difficult to drill. So bad are some that I have resorted to calling in a thread repair specialist who has right angle drills and cobalt bits etc and he removes and replaces all studs, including repairing any damaged threads etc for a reasonable sum Recently I had to do 3 broken studs in a Td5 as he was on holidays, I ended up having to 'MIG' them out. Worked well but was time consuming.
    The manifold WILL be warped, and WILL need machining. If you don't do this you will have to redo the job again shortly, as the leak WILL return.
    The difficult couple of fasteners are the one under the heat shield from the back into the turbo housing, the 2 Socket head cap screws holding on the EGR pipe(5mm allen key)and the 3 nuts holding the turbo flange to the manifold can be VERY tight.
    AND, if it is a Disco2, then you would be well advised to actually REMOVE the wastegate modulator valve attached to the side of the A/C compressor incase it gets broken. Don't ask HOW I know this....
    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Other posability is a leaking intercooler hose.
    Andrew
    Same problem.
    Screeching near 3Krpm.
    Before. The standard hose before intercooler had a hole.
    Replaced with silicon and wide heavy duty clamps.
    Hoses blew off the pipe a couple of times with the same noise prior to it happening.
    Repaced with narrow STD clamps and yet no noises.
    Will look if manifold leaks.
    Flexi joint after turbo has carbon marks all round.

  10. #10
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    ALthough its not related to this particular scenatios solution.


    dont forget the wastegate acutator hose mine got a crack on the inside of a bend.
    Dave

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