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Thread: LT230 Differences

  1. #1

    LT230 Differences

    Gday,
    I am currently after a LT230 to replace mine and I was just wondering whether it mattered what model I purchased?
    The car I have is a 300TDi Discovery 1 with an 5sp Manual R380.
    Can I just get any LT230 and it would mate up and/or using a couple of parts from my existing gearbox/transfer? Or do I require to get a specific model of LT230?
    If there are any differences, what are they?

    Any help appreciated!
    Regards,

    Matt

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Somewhere else, QLD
    Posts
    1,864
    Generally, they all will bolt up correctly no problem - the changes are mostly internal ( bearings and gear teeth type).

    The only thing to watch is that it has a center diff lock, which for a while in the early 21st century ( Always wanted to type that phrase ) they did not. Also, lt230's from a defender have a lower gearing than a disco ( or early RR). That's good if you want monster tyres or do rock climbing, or tow something like the titanic all the time.

    When you do get one, get the seller to take the rear coverplate off and look at the input gear splines - they can be worn on TC's that have had a hard life. (Causes the 'clunk' in the driveline), and see how much play there is on the centre diff - there will be some, but a real lot is trouble waiting to happen.

    Treat yourself to a new set of seals ( input, intermediate shaft and output) which will save hassles later.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply.

    Well my current LT230 is stuffed and I am looking for another one to replace it. However, the one I get I am going to rebuild prior to installing it. At this stage I have already bought a rebuild kit, that would suit my current LT230.
    My current transfer and rebuild kit is to suit a 28D model LT230.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Wheelers Hill, Melbourne
    Posts
    3,647
    It looks like 4 ratios were commonly made.
    See here.

    Ashcroft Transmissions

    Here is a useful link to ratio's.

    Land Rover Gear FAQ
    DeeJay
    1999 Defender Wagon
    1977 SWB Hardtop

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    'The Creek' Captain Creek, QLD
    Posts
    3,724
    Some early versions have input gears for which replacements do not have the cross drilled lube holes (so splines can wear, but a plate is available to help with lube).

    Some late versions are not drilled and tapped for the hand brake bracket used in some rangies, but this is not a problem with cable handbrakes like in discos.

    The roller bearing versions (LT230R) look more robust then taper roller versions (LT230T), but I prefer the LT230T.

    The quite versions (LT230Q), look to have the weakest gear teeth (small teeth) to me, but I have not seen any reports that it is an issue.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
    Posts
    9,237
    Quote Originally Posted by Bush65 View Post
    The quite versions (LT230Q), look to have the weakest gear teeth (small teeth) to me, but I have not seen any reports that it is an issue.
    Some very high mileage/heavy tower D2s have had these gears overheat quite badly.
    Scott

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills - SA
    Posts
    12,516

  8. #8
    Okay I picked up a 28F and ive started to take it apart. But I got to the point where I need to take the 'Mainshaft input gear bearing housing' off. However, I cant - it feels like its been welded from the inside or something haha. Its the model where it basically just sits against the transfer case, opposed to the other models which have two countersunk screws holding it on. I might add I couldn't find any screws or bolts holding it on! What I did was I hit it with a hammer and all that and it doesn't even seem to budge! Whats the go with these? How do I get it off.
    Its rather quite annoying!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    'The Creek' Captain Creek, QLD
    Posts
    3,724
    Quote Originally Posted by specwarop View Post
    Okay I picked up a 28F and ive started to take it apart. But I got to the point where I need to take the 'Mainshaft input gear bearing housing' off. However, I cant - it feels like its been welded from the inside or something haha. Its the model where it basically just sits against the transfer case, opposed to the other models which have two countersunk screws holding it on. I might add I couldn't find any screws or bolts holding it on! What I did was I hit it with a hammer and all that and it doesn't even seem to budge! Whats the go with these? How do I get it off.
    Its rather quite annoying!
    Probably glued together by the silicon gasket sealant used now.

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