start by checking the idle up actuator on the throttle body
’93 Rangie, V8 auto EFI located in Perth WA.
In the past few weeks sometimes it idles a bit fast after the engine has reached operating temperature about 1100rpm but not always usually about 750 to 800rpm.
Sometimes it will take me somewhere and it’s fine but when I try to start it, it acts like it has a gut full of fuel and is pretty hard to start unless left to cool down for 15 minutes, then it will start with the throttle wide open but still idles fast when the throttle is backed off, next day it starts fine idles fine.
Acts bit like a carburetor engine with the choke on and only appears to happen when it is doing the fast idle thing.
I’m not a mechanic but I’m thinking it is something to do with the engine temp sensor/s not sure which ones but probably the one that tell the ECU that the engine has warmed up and less fuel is required.
Can anyone confirm that I’m on the right track and if so point me toward the offending sensor…I notice there are several sensors screwed into the engine at the top just forward of centre of the engine.
Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any help offered.
start by checking the idle up actuator on the throttle body
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
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Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
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There is loads of information here on site regarding the EFI systems on these.
I will try to find the particular threads, unless Mike90RR beats me to it!
Do a search for 90 RRC EFI testing.
My disco did the same thing and it was the stepper motor,it had a carbon ring around the seat and after a good clean idled and ran smoothly. Pat
Bill, PM me and I will take a look at it for you if you like. I'm in Alexander Heights so not too far away at all.
Cheers
Andrew.
I’ve been having a bit of a rethink on what’s going on and wonder if it might be electrical.
If I drive it and can keep the revs above 1200rpm when at traffic lights or in line of traffic I can drive off….But if revs drop below 1000rpm it cuts out and has to cool down for 15 to 20 minutes until the temp gauge drops back to about half way between cold and where it usually sits (Just before the 6 o’clock mark).
I’m now thinking it might be the coil or the ignition module on the side of the distributor breaking down when engine bay is hot, it did cross my mind to just replace both but couldn't get the coil from either Coventry's ($300 +) or Supercheap ($160 + freight) and not sure what's involved with replacing the module, so thought it better to get some advice from here.
Thought about the ignition leads but doesn’t seem logical they would ALL fail at the same time to the point they do and then ALL come good when the temperature drops a bit ….same with the spark plugs.
When it’s cold it starts first touch, battery is new and spins motor over fine, when driving there is no noticeable loss of power and when started from cold doesn’t miss.
Any comments/suggestions appreciated.
Last edited by Bill E; 12th September 2009 at 02:42 PM. Reason: additional information added.
The module sounds like the trouble.They do do what yours is doing when they are on the way out. Pat
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