Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 35

Thread: Winch Isolators

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    TBA
    Posts
    2,328
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Winch Isolators

    Gday

    Just interested to see what you have all done to isolate your winch?

    I imagine you've all heard the stories of nasty people who run your cable out, wrap it over the top of your car and stick a bit of wire in the control box

    I would prefer this didn't happen to my Landy

    I have looked at proper isolators but they cost $80-$100 for something fit for the purpose

    What are your thoughts on putting one of these in the cable then running a switch up to the dash?

    Then all I have to do is flick the switch and I have power to my winch

    Or isn't it that simple

    I'm planning on doing the same with my compressor when I get it going

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Dalby
    Posts
    4,011
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Since there are four of them in a winch control box (two wind in, two wind out?) I would think that one would not be enough.

    I just remove the positive cable from the battery when not in use.
    Which means I connect it before a 4wd trip and disconnect it afterwards.
    Cost is $0 to do it this way. Nothing fancy required.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    perth
    Posts
    110
    Total Downloaded
    0
    last winch i fitted came with a heavy duty relay for the main battery cable to the winch wired to the ignition circuit, winch wouldn`t work unless ignition was on

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Wheelers Hill, Melbourne
    Posts
    4,085
    Total Downloaded
    0

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    North Avoca
    Posts
    194
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Battery Master Switch

    I've been looking at this also and I've come to the conclusion that you either do the simple thing of disconnecting the positive winch lead at the battery (and reconnect it before going off road) or you put in a battery master switch.

    Personally, I wouldn't put in a relay as to carry the peak current of a winch they're going to be very expensive (and maybe hard to get). For example, I've seen one at ARB that will take 200A continuous at 12v and they wanted around $380 for it; and that's well short of the peak current that (say) a 9,000lb winch can draw.

    On battery master switches, I first of all looked at the Hella 40-4650 battery master switch which had an impressive rating of 1000A at 12v but when I read the fine print this was for 10 sec only. The continuous rating was 50A at 12v which I reckon is not going to safely cover a lot of potential winching scenarios.

    Now I've come across the Narva battery master switch range which have a continuous rating of 300A at 12V. Maybe I'm overly cautious but this sounds more the goods to me. - As to how much they cost, I'll find out some time next week, assuming of course that they're available in Oz.
    Mellow Yellow

    No matter what the problem - there's a solution. You've just got to find it.

    2013 Discovery 4 TDV6 3.0
    2015 Defender 90 - The TARDIS (Gone)
    2003 Defender 110 - The Yellow Peril (Gone but remembered fondly)
    2001 Discovery II TD5 (Gone)
    1986 County V8 (Gone)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    North West Tasmania
    Posts
    869
    Total Downloaded
    0
    These work a treat,
    Try Tamar marine Jock
    Cheers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    North Avoca
    Posts
    194
    Total Downloaded
    0
    These look very much like the Hella 40-4650 switch which Hella rate at 50A continuous for 12V not the 100A continuous claimed in the e-Bay ad.
    Mellow Yellow

    No matter what the problem - there's a solution. You've just got to find it.

    2013 Discovery 4 TDV6 3.0
    2015 Defender 90 - The TARDIS (Gone)
    2003 Defender 110 - The Yellow Peril (Gone but remembered fondly)
    2001 Discovery II TD5 (Gone)
    1986 County V8 (Gone)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cairns, Qld
    Posts
    49
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Disconnecting the positive from the battery seems the simplest idea. Or you could open cct two of the control wires between the control box and the socket. You will probably need a DPST switch. One pole for each direction. Mount the switch in the cab or in the engine bay. No relay required.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Wheelers Hill, Melbourne
    Posts
    4,085
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
    These look very much like the Hella 40-4650 switch which Hella rate at 50A continuous for 12V not the 100A continuous claimed in the e-Bay ad.
    I was being lazy, I just posted one to illustrate. I have a pretty good marine one. Hella I think.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    narellan, sydney
    Posts
    1,131
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jock The Rock View Post
    I imagine you've all heard the stories of nasty people who run your cable out, wrap it over the top of your car and stick a bit of wire in the control box

    I would prefer this didn't happen to my Landy
    urban myth. It may have origionated in hollywood

    If you are worried, Insure your car for lots more than its worth.


    Andy

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!