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Thread: Td5 centrifuge, converting to studs???

  1. 18th October 2009, 05:51 PM #1
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    alien
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    Question Td5 centrifuge, converting to studs???

    G'day all,
    After changing my centrifuge oil filter for the 2nd time in two days I've noticed I have very little tread left even with longer bolts fitted.
    I was wondering if any one had converted the bolts to studs?

    My thought was to cut the head of a 40mm to 50mm long bolt, fit in main housing and fitting a nut underneath to lock it(use loctite as well),
    then just use a nut to hold cover on.
    Couldn't protrude to far as need to move the cover to remove, only need thread to protrude from nut by 2 threads.

    Any comments or outher options?

    Cheers Kyle.

    Ps. I should have thought of this when I had more access
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  2. 18th October 2009, 06:22 PM #2
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    dont bother.

    drill out, tap and helicoil back to the nominal thread and you're set for life. Takes all of 20 minute.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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  3. 18th October 2009, 07:20 PM #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    dont bother.

    drill out, tap and helicoil back to the nominal thread and you're set for life. Takes all of 20 minute.
    Yet anouther helicoil kit to the collection, Thanks Dave.

    That makes more sense, space could be an issue but all things are possiblle.

    Cheers,Kyle.
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  4. 21st October 2009, 10:44 AM #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    dont bother.

    drill out, tap and helicoil back to the nominal thread and you're set for life. Takes all of 20 minute.
    only way to go
    Cheers from the Desert
    Rexy
    2000 130 TD5
    Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world
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  5. 21st October 2009, 06:19 PM #5
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    plenty of space to work you need a long shank 7mm drill from memory (consult the appropriate helicoil kit) and a 1/4 inch by 6 inch extention bar to sit on the head of the tap then just wind the helicoil in.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  6. 24th October 2009, 05:38 PM #6
    catch-22
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    Dave....I um.....screwed (see what I did there) mine today. Recon it'll be OK to drive without the bolt securely down until I can get the kit??

    Oh and you know what helicoil kit I need?? Or do I just take them the bolt?
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  7. 26th October 2009, 01:47 PM #7
    catch-22
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    Hijacked the thread, I know..

    but anyone know what helicoil kit I need?
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  8. 26th October 2009, 03:02 PM #8
    catch-22
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    OK, size required is M6-1.

    If you were in Sydney I would say pop round and we'll do yours as there are a lot of threads left over...
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  9. 26th October 2009, 03:43 PM #9
    catch-22
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    OK all done. So 40 mins.

    20 mins of that was looking for a long enough drill bit. It is not needed, however, and can just be tapped straight away.

    You can really tighten it up now....very nice kit.
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  10. 26th October 2009, 08:19 PM #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by catch-22 View Post
    OK all done. So 40 mins.

    20 mins of that was looking for a long enough drill bit. It is not needed, however, and can just be tapped straight away.

    You can really tighten it up now....very nice kit.

    In my experience if the thread is stripped you can use the helicoil tap straight away,
    If any thread left it binds on that section which is why you have to pre-drill.

    Cheers.

    Ps, thanks for the size of the kit(next service).
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