if you have a properly wired trailer socket you can put charge in through the auxillary connection it should be fuesed at 10a and hook up directly to the battery.
you can get onto the starter pole from under the vehicle in a defender with an alligator clip.
On a D2 I have opened the bonnet from underneath the vehicle. You need a long welding rod or similar with a small hook on the end. By laying on the ground directly under the bonnet catch you can see, reach up and hook on to the lock mechanism to pull it to open the bonnet
No real easy but I have done it more than once when my bonnet cable failed.
OK I think this is the same as what I had.
Bonnet was up overnight.
In the morning both key fobs would not work.
Opened drivers door manually "Barp barp barp barp barp..."
Now in my panic to not annoy the neighbours I can't remember what exactly I did then but I think the key fob re-activated at this stage and I locked then unlocked the car and all was well.
The battery was fine.
Dave
Just a thought - The drivers door should open with the key without power no worries. Only thing would be if the ignition barrel was changed and the door is keyed different to the ignition. As mentioned I highly doubt a flat bat.
Dave
I think I went down the wrong path with the flat battery idea:wasntme:.
I can turn the key in the door but nothing happens.
I have tried the EKA but got nothing :confused:
ben...
Sounds a bit odd. You could always check the battery has at least some output by crawling underneath and using a multimeter or test lamp connected to earth and the main input to the starter solenoid (the big nut covered by a rubber insulator on the side of the solenoid). Test lamp should be bright/multimeter 12ish volts.
If its was flat/disconnected you could just run a wire to this nut and use another battery with a jumper lead (negative) to earth and the positive to the other end of the wire. The security wouldn't need that much power to open the door lock, so the wire relay wouldn't be a prob (although some spike prevention jump leads would be advisable).
I assumed it would be a mechanical connection in the lock and still feel it should be - maybe something is broken in the lock and hasn't shown up as you usually use the fob? Can anyone clarify this?
Dave
I was under the impression the key unlocked the drivers door like a normal key.Ive never tested it.
After my current electriggery issues,pun intended.Im going to fit a fishing wire trace to the bonnet latch so I can open the bonnet if BlackBetty wont let me in!!!
Andrew
Hi Ben
Just went out and tested as my battery is dis-connected.
Key definately manualy locks and unlocks the drivers door.
You must have mis-matched ignition and lock barrels.
Was there ever another key when you got the vehicle??? Im thinking if it had a previous owner they have had a failed ignition lock and replaced it,the key is now miss-matched to the door.
Andrew
when the alarm is set it super locks the doors, so the key may not unlock the superlock if that battery is flat. i know if i arm the alarm then unlock with the key i can hear and feel the electric mechanism in the door.
in this instance i am glad i have an anderson plug at both the front and rear of my car
Thanks Rosscoe
I will look into an extra anderson for the main and put it at the front.
The rear is a Traxide job(part of a triple control unit) and once its isolated due to the main being flat its not available to charge the main.
With my camping gear Im sorting all I need is an anderson to give solar or Honda power:cool::cool::cool: to any anderson point.
Makes sense to put any spare power into the main battery at rest and let the traxide gear sort the rest out.The 80lt engel lives in the D2 and is the major power draw on the system whilst camping.The trailer has 2 big truck batteries for storage.
Thanks
Andrew