Thread: Endless air valveing

Originally Posted by whitakerb

When bought my disco, it came with an (home made) endless air setup. Basically a Filter into the compressor, then into a tank (4 or 5L) under the bullbar and into a valve block comprising of a gauge, an air outlet and relief valve, then into another valve block comprising of 2 air locker solenoids and a 140psi pressure switch. If you are able to swallow all that then I will ask a question..

Upon purchase, the old owner informed me that the compressor had seized, but he had a spare one in the back for me to fit up. After removing it, I found one cylinder had seized. After using the search button, I found how to modify the compressor to pump air (block off an oil port, and fill it with grease). Now after reassembly, I have discovered that if I blow into the outlet, there is very little restriction and the air comes straight out the inlet.
Question 1: Will the reed valves on the compressor seal at low pressure or are both the valve plates I have used stuffed??what sort of compressor are you talking about? york,sanden etc?? ive never tried it but spinning the pulley by hand and sticking your fingers over the ports will give you suction. for my setup all the pressuru was leaking past the compressor and out the suction. i fitted a check valve.


Question 2: The ARB air lockers are supposed to run at about 100psi but the system is set at 140psi. Would the general consensus be to put a 100psi pressure switch in or run the airlockers through a regulator? (I don't fancy blowing out seals)
i run 90psi, most run 100psi max, from what i found they seam to pop the O ring after 100psi. i run mine through a regulator, because i still wanted 140psi in the tank.
Question 3: Are in line oilers and separator just 'nice to have things' or a requirement. i dont use a seperator, never have and i get 3 tenths of FK all oil anywhere. you need to supply the suction side of the comp with some form of lube, usuall tapping into the tappet cover is enough.


I know many of you will guide me back to the search button however I have found many things contradictory particularly when I enter the world of google search so I have asked you lot directly.
search here for on board air. have a look at discowhites D1 ute build.

Many thanks in advance

Ben

PS, just for interests sake, the system is on a 200Tdi disco and the compressor is mounted next to the aircon compressor

cheers phil

yes the reed valves should seal at low pressure, if they dont, before you strip it down turn the unit upside down immerse it in diesel and turn the compressor by hand a few times leave it to sit overnight and go it again in the morning. Fit a decent check valve between the tank and the compressor as reed valves are not brilliant at sealing up while they arent actively working.

Id be fitting a regulator the bigger head of pressure will make blowing up tyres faster and work rattle guns for removing wheel nuts harder.


for a york recipricating style compressor an oiler of some description is optional for all other types its mandatory.

threres 4 main different styles of setup (each with minor variations you can choose from.

1. air inlet drawn from the crankcase vent, the misted oil from the engine does the lubing
2. a normal air tool in line oiler fitted to the inlet of the compressor
3. spraying some inox or similar into the inlet every now and then
4. fitting a ADV to the bottom of the reciver tank and venting it back to the inlet.

I have a oil drain on the tank and find that is enough.
My system runs 140 psi and runs a cheap 30 dollar air pressure reg for spray painting which knocks down the pressure for the air locker to 90 psi.
the whole system works very well .
I use a older type piston reciprocating A/C compressor without any oiling other than a top up in the sump every time I change the vehicles engine oil.
The system has been running for years now and is used around the farm for spray painting and running rattle guns etc too.
DSCF0672.jpg picture by 101Ron - Photobucket

air compressor where 24v alt used to be picture by 101Ron - Photobucket
12 lt air tank in nose with outlet picture by 101Ron - Photobucket
The air tank is 12 litres.

Sorry the compressor is a 7 cyl sanden unit. The more I think about this setup the less I like it.

Just my luck that the pressure switch is on the wrong valve block. I'll have to move it before I can run a regulator.

Thanks for your help

Ben

My system also has a check valve between the air compressor and the tank to stop any leak back though the compressor .
It will hold its pressure for days.
Note the air pressure reg also removes any water in the air for the locker and that must be a good thing.
Use a high temp Nylon tube from the compressor or the heat will make the hose blow apart from the fittings.