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Thread: 101 V8 Died (3.5l)

  1. #1
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    101 V8 Died (3.5l)

    The fuel return hoses on my Freelander diesel have perished so it it off the road. So I have been using my 101 to run around in get bits.

    The temp gauge on the 101 normally sits on 80 and when outside temp is in the 30s it rises to 90 and sits there. Yesterday with outside temp around 40 ran around town trying to get bits I needed. This morning started up to to get more bits and about 300m from home the engine started missing then very thick pure white smoke came out from the exhaust and there was the smell of coolant. The engine was still running roughly and then I shut it down. It would not start.

    Coolant was down so I refilled it and noticed the drip of coolant from underneath - looks like I have either split a lower hose or seals in the water pump have gone - haven't checked yet. When the engine cooled it would start with no steam but dies about 30 secs later with steam coming out the exhaust - the oil looks OK. Looks like the leak started yesterday when I was running around in the heat and maybe the engine got cooked then.

    So for those in the know - obviously the head gasket/s have gone so given the above what are the chances of damage to the rings/bores etc. Also when I lift the heads will I be able to tell by looking down the bores if the the rings etc are Ok or do I need to remove them to be absolutely sure.

    If it is just a head gasket job then i will stay with the 3.5 but if more terminal then I need to consider other options. I have a dead 3.9 (serpentine belt) on my engine stand that needs rebuilding so I might as well get it built.

    Any ideas from those in the know.

    Garry

    PS - I need to put on some plastic line on the diesel fuel return line on my Freelander as a temporary measure so that I can drive to the shop and buy the correct stuff to fix it. No other transport. Fish tank air hose worked a treat so I was able to buy some of the proper pipe - like all things freeloader - was a pain to get the little pieces of pipe back in but at least I have transport to get things for the 101.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #2
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    that is a stroke of bad luck mate, before you remove the heads do a compression check if you want to check the rings as this is the indicator for worn rings, although if you have a blown head gasket or slipped liner you will be low on compression on those cylinders.

    If you cant check the compression, if it ran allright and had little blow by the rings should be ok, so work out if its the water pump or head gasket, get them machined as they will most likely be warped.

  3. #3
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    compression test followed by a leak down test. you might get lucky and have only done one head.

    providing the block/head isnt RS and you dont take too long getting the rework started you might get away without ring problems.

    in the mean time rip the plugs out and drop some oil down there.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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  4. #4
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    The Plot Thickens

    I drove it home late yesterday and was driving OK with no indication that there was a problem - the temp was a little high but where it sits on a 40 degree day. Started this morning no problems then 300m later when doing a U turn she started missing and the white steamy smoke appeared. It will not run when hot but will start fine and run OK when cold - as it warms up it starts to run rough and the exhaust starts to become white. It is only then that the coolant starts to drip down from the engine.

    The leak is not actually from radiator hose or the water pump but from the back of the engine on the passenger side so, have now checked where the leak is from - not from the pump or radiator hoses but is coming out of the LPG bit that delivers the gas to the air intake but it has no direction connection to the cooling system. On pulling a few things off, the coolant is coming through the gas hose from the thingy that heats up the gas which is connected to the cooling system. So as the engine is sucking coolant into the the engine via the air system - this sort of explains the symptoms of a blown head gasket as water tends to extinguish the fires inside the engine and come out the exhaust as steam.

    I disconnected the gas hose so the coolant would not go into the engine and started up - after a bit of cranking it started and ran fine with no white smoke - however there does seem to be more blue smoke than usual but the engine was only warm and it does blow a little smoke when cold due to worn valve sealing.

    So is the $64,000 question is whether the engine was actually damaged due to low coolant levels when running on a 40c day. I will plug off the coolant to the LPG heater tomorrow and go for a run - I guess the absence of a smoke trail will indicate all is OK and if I smoke everything out well I need to look further. I will try to do a compression test but it is hard to get at the spark plug holes with a a gauge.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
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    Hi Garry,

    How much coolant did it lose originally? If it was only a litre or so and you weren't flogging it I wouldn't worry about doing a compression test (they always seem to cause depression ) if it runs the same as it did before and is not pressurising the cooling system.

    Gas convertors are pretty cheap. What sort is it? I think a new big Impco one for my POS is only about $150.

    Your findings are making me think I should get a newy because the current one has done about 400,000.

    cheers, DL

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    Hi Garry,

    How much coolant did it lose originally?

    Gas convertors are pretty cheap. What sort is it?
    Not sure exactly as I used the hose to fill the radiator backup but my guess is nearly empty.

    Not sure what sort of converter as I have never actually seen it - it is hidden in a compartment up in the front wheel arch. I will remove both components and get the LPG guy to put kits through them.

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #7
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    Id do the compression and leakdown tests...

    if your lucky the worst youve done is shorten the life of the headgasket.

    if unlucky youve started the process for the softening of the head/block.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
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    Garry
    You have a Impco gas convertor and they have a bad habit of
    corroding though if coolant has not been used at some stage of the motors life.
    Remove the two cooling system hoses running to the gas convertor at the gas convertor end and join them together with fittings and another hose.
    Top up the cooling system and test drive.(On petrol)
    If the convertor is corroded though, there is usually water drop lets present in the lowest parts of the large gas vapour supply hose to the gas mixer.
    I hope it is the problem as it is a easy fix.

  9. #9
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    Garry, It is lucky you had a 3.5, can't kill them with a big stick

    Drive it a bit more before making a decision, steam will clean heaps of carbon etc from the engine and the exhaust system, I would guess that the residual smoke could be that?

    Good luck

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #10
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    A radiator pressure tester pumped up to 13 psi and look for leaks as well as water in the bores by pulling the sparkplugs and cranking over and see if water vapour comes out the plug holes when cranking.
    the pressure tester will hold pressure for a long time if every thing is OK.
    The pressure test will also check the convertor if you disconnect the vapour hose from the convertor and inspect for water.

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