This is what I did. I put the biggest core I could fit on the existing tanks. We flowed the tanks as well removing heaps of metal and making the inlet and out let quite a bit bigger. Yes there was a very noticeable difference. I had to cut the cowling away from behind it so it would fit properly. I had actually done this way before the upgrade and was surprising that this heaped a bit as well. The theory was that the air could blast through it faster and cool better. It did!
Fuel pump tweaks are easy. Just do it your self.i
The 200-300 is incredibly easy to tweak. I have done mine and countless others. and all needed to be done differently, some were auto discos others defender 110 etc and owners wanted different things so its good to know how its done so you can do what suits you.
A handy mod to start with is replace the screws on top of the pump with allan key cap screws. This makes it much easier and quicker when you are fine tuning, you will be in and out of it a few times before you are happy. Leave the torx screw on the top alone and never play with max fuel screw on the side, the less things you muck about with the better and makes its easier to fine tune and fix messes.
Pull off the top and note and mark the position of the small dot at about 12 o'clock then remove the diaphragm. It will come out but you may need to move the throttle to free it.
Give star the star wheel one half turn to the right, this allows more fuel with boost.
On the shaft of the diaphragm there is plastic bush. Remove and keep in a safe place. basically this lets the diagram go down further. Some shave it down if they don't want to go the whole way, but who doesn't want to go all the way!
Replace diaphragm with the small point back where it was.
Put the top back on and go for a spin.
If its blowing no smoke and you still want more power, then you can take the top off the pump and by small degrees turn the diaphragm to the right untill it produces no more than a very slight haze at full noise, if any more smoke than this then turn the other way. If the smoke is at low revs then turn the star wheel back anti clockwise as it can give additional fuel at low boost too early or too much fuel is being added.
I have mine tuned for a bit of smoke under load at low revs which is very handy when you are climbing a steep hill off road or about to stall, it then clears up totally clean as soon as boost kicks in and then a very light haze all maxed. If its blowing any black you will end out loving the power. Tough titty, turn it back, even if it seems gutless by comparison, black smoke at load shags heads!
Without a big intercooler then maybe don't even have a haze at high revs but a bit of low rev smoke (under 1500 or until its boosting) wont kill it.
if you want to tweak the boost there no point in going over 18psi as restrictions in the overall airflow means you will loose power beyond this.
REMEMBER AND NOTE EVERYTHING so you can put it back exactly as you found it if need to or if you get cocked up. Mark the point and count the clicks! As every ones says an EGT gauge never hurts and your radiator needs to be in top notch order. Seriously this is a Hanes 2spanner job.
Buy the way these tweaks are what Jeremy J Fearn does. google him if you dont know who he is.
I have done heaps of these and never cracked a head yet and you will be fine if just don't over do it.
Have fun


 
						
					 
					
					 
				
				
				
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					 Originally Posted by PAT303
 Originally Posted by PAT303
					

 . So i'm guessing it's not working to it's full potential . better make a phone call
 . So i'm guessing it's not working to it's full potential . better make a phone call  .
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 .
 .  Lets hit the hills
 Lets hit the hills  
						
					

 
						
					 
				 
						
					
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