Thread: LT230 Overhaul Help

1 - No it should turn smoothly.

2- I can't recall. Most likely the larger ball would go to the hi/low selector, but I'm guessing, and persuaded that way because I can't see why the detent for the diff lock selector would have a larger ball.

1- What could be causing it to not turn smoothly?

Is your TC one which uses a gasket or just sealant to join the front housing and main casing? The 'choppy' feeling equates to the bearing being loaded up, perhaps more than required. RAVE seems to harp on using a gasket where there was one before, so if you haven't one, try temporarily fitting something like a gasket and see if that helps.

Could be as Langy said. Gaskets were only used up to serial number 288709E.

Could also be the splined hub for hi/lo selector sleeve around the wrong way. At a quick glance, it looks like it wouldn't matter, but one end (lo gear side) has a small chamfer because of the fillet radius at the shoulder on the centre diff housing. The overhaul manual only instructs you to match mark the end of the hub and sleeve before they are removed, and to re-assemble with the marks the same way.

Make sure that it is properly selecting high/low/neutral in case there something else that hasn't line up properly.

You didn't say if the rear output housing was already on when you experienced the problem. If not, the bearings would not have been pre-loaded.

Yeh I am pretty sure this was the non-gasket model. No gasket when I took it apart.

In regards to the hi/lo selector sleeve. I made the marks as per the manual when I dismantled it, but they came off when I washed the parts. Major annoyance. But when I put it back on I couldn't really see any difference as to which way around it went, etc...

Yeah the rear housing is already on there.

Could it be choppy because of the bearings? I guess there could be a small possibility that I have put the bearings on too far or something...

Originally Posted by specwarop

Yeh I am pretty sure this was the non-gasket model. No gasket when I took it apart.

In regards to the hi/lo selector sleeve. I made the marks as per the manual when I dismantled it, but they came off when I washed the parts. Major annoyance. But when I put it back on I couldn't really see any difference as to which way around it went, etc...

Yeah the rear housing is already on there.

Could it be choppy because of the bearings? I guess there could be a small possibility that I have put the bearings on too far or something...

Could be the sleeve is around the wrong way - easy mistake. As I said there is a difference but it is subtle and possibly enough to affect the bearing pre-load.

You can't put the bearings on too far, unless you have added shims or the bearings have changed - the lengths are fixed.

The bearing pre-load is set by shim spacers behind the outer bearing ring in the front output housing. I have found when new bearings are fitted, the original spacer set is ok - but never take it for granted.

If you loosen the mounting bolts for either the front or rear output housings and that fixes it, then: either it is the selector sleeve on back to front, or you need to make a change to the shim spacers in the front housing.

Yeah I have been testing the preload but my DTI thingo is a pretty cheapo model so that might be out. Ive also been doing it dodgily, in comparison to what is suggested in the manual, because they have what looks to be quite expensive addons for testing...

Anyways, I will take it all apart again today and turn the sleeve around, fingers crossed that does the trick....

Regards,

Originally Posted by specwarop

...

Anyways, I will take it all apart again today and turn the sleeve around, fingers crossed that does the trick....

Regards,

Check the sleeve. One end has a small chamfer at the internal splines. The chamfered end has to go on first (after the low range gear of course) because it goes up to a shoulder on the centre diff housing.

The bush inside the high range gear has a flange on one end. The flange end goes to the outside and the bearing cone butts against the flange.

If you re-use the nut, you may not be able to stake it properly - so best to use loctite on the threads. If you have a new nut, then loctite is not needed.