It looks like a cross-bolted Rover V8. It could be a 4.0 or 4.6 - the block and bore is the same but the stroke differs.
I can't crawl under my car to check the casting no.
What has to be modified to use ARP studs?
Hey guys,
I may have come into luck to acquire this block
Ive been told its from a later model rangey, so im assuming it's a 4.6 complete with rotating assembly. im also told that one head bolt thread has been stripped from the block, but im guessing this can be repaired, or I could even splurge and get all holes modified for stud and nut assembly.(has this been done before?)
This is all ive been told though.
Any way I've taken a few pics, so hopefully someone might be able to identify it for me
Thanks!
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It looks like a cross-bolted Rover V8. It could be a 4.0 or 4.6 - the block and bore is the same but the stroke differs.
I can't crawl under my car to check the casting no.
What has to be modified to use ARP studs?
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Hello Mark,
The block casting HRC2411 is indeed the last Rover V8 design whilst being produced by Land Rover.
If you can rotate the crankshaft, you will see the capacity stamped into one of the crankshaft counter weights. It will be either Rover 4.0 or Rover 4.6.
Crankshaft, connecting rods and pistons are all unique to each capacity. Beside the engine number (which will also reveal the capacity via a check) you will find the compression ratio
If you wish to use studs and nuts for head retention, then no modifications are required to the threads within the block. The problem that you may encounter is if you ever wish to remove a head whilst the engine is in situ, you may well find a problem with clearance. Same applies to putting heads on with the engine already in the vehicle. The outcome will be dependent on the type of vehicle that you fit the engine into.
Ron.
thanks for the help!
so i've had a look, and turns out it IS the 4.6 so i'll do my best to grab it
as far as matching it go, will my sump from a 3.5i fit on, along with the oil pump and pick up etc?
plus when i source some heads for it, ill probably get the big boy valves etc. will my intake and exhaust manifolds mount up? or again would i have to get others to suit.
also who can i talk to about some high torque cam grinds?
Check the liners to see if they have slipped.
Do any pistons look clean (although they might be if the head has been off). Steam cleaned pistons are indicator of a slipped liner.
Steam Cleaned Piston
Run your fingernail over the liner/deck junction. It should be dead smooth. If there is any lip, I'd say the liner has moved.
See these pix I took of a block I have:
Good:
Slipped
Before spending too much, see also Interesting V8 block tester
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Hello Mark,
Your 3.5i sump will fit, although depending on its design you may need to relieve the front section to allow for the swing of the crankshaft. Your 3.5 timing cover, oil pump and oil pickup with gasket will all fit straight on.
The inlet and exhaust port sizes will determine whether or not you will need to modify your exisiting manifolds to suit the big valve heads.
With any 4.0 or 4.6 litre block it is always a good idea to have the liners removed and top hat liners fitted even if the block is sound. In this way you have a block and liners which will run forever without giving problems down the track.
Ron.
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