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Thread: Range rover 1986 heater box

  1. #1
    tebone Guest

    Range rover 1986 heater box

    Hi Guys,
    I have noticed in my 86 rangie I still get a slight bit of heat coming from my heater box region even when my heater is turned to the cold position. Is this a common problem? I exprience a very warm transmission tunnel also.
    Do I install a heater bypass valve in the system to stop water flowing through my heater core? What is your thoughts?

    Regards Tebone

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    A hot transmission tunnel is normal. You can fit heat reflecting insulation under the console but it doesn't make a lot of difference.

    Winter's coming up - enjoy it .
    Scott

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by tebone View Post
    Hi Guys,
    I have noticed in my 86 rangie I still get a slight bit of heat coming from my heater box region even when my heater is turned to the cold position. Is this a common problem? I exprience a very warm transmission tunnel also.
    Do I install a heater bypass valve in the system to stop water flowing through my heater core? What is your thoughts?

    Regards Tebone
    Certain Discos had bypass (4 port) heater taps. The best replacement tap is specified for VS to VY V6 Commodores, and is no too dear even genuine GMH. You will need a vacuum valve to actuate the heater valve. Range Rover heaters like all heaters wear out the mixing flaps and leak hot air. Heat foil under the tunnel is hard to fit, more underfelt on top may help.

  4. #4
    tebone Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Certain Discos had bypass (4 port) heater taps. The best replacement tap is specified for VS to VY V6 Commodores, and is no too dear even genuine GMH. You will need a vacuum valve to actuate the heater valve. Range Rover heaters like all heaters wear out the mixing flaps and leak hot air. Heat foil under the tunnel is hard to fit, more underfelt on top may help.
    I was thinking the samething. Thanks

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    If its the same as my 77 ( and I think it is) , then the problem is probably that the foam seals on the flap doors that direct the heat have turned to dust. These are usually replaced with Raven door seals when the heater core leaks and you spend a happy 10 hours or so replacing or repairing it.

    In addition the cables from the control can be maladjusted and not close fully. This is a fix you can do in situ if you are a Japanese size contortionist. If you lie upside down you can see on the heater box where the cables terminate at the flaps and there is a spring clip that holds the outer in place. You undo the spring clip and shift the cable.

    Regards Philip A

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