Thread: Disco 3/4 Automatic Transmission FAQ - 6 Speed

Originally Posted by specwarop

Also, what is the typical temperature range the gearboxes should run at?

operating temp should be around 100deg

Hi,
My 2011 D4 2.7 TDV6 is at 221,000kms and has the shudders.
Its had the pan mod and oil service (albeit late at 165000). At about 180 - 190K it got the shudders. Dr Tanny was added, which improved things a bit for a while, however its now come back and I'm expecting it needs the rebuild.

A Canberra independent LR shop quoted me $8800, and told me who they use a reputable Canberra based transmission shop.
Another Canberra independent LR shop sent me direct to the same transmission shop.

I've spoken to the trans shop and was indicated $6800 to overhaul including replace + upgrade valves, replace friction material + bushes, replace torque converter.
They re-use the existing machatronics computer. Add labour and fluids, so I guess its around $7,500.
The Canberra shop made a point about the "upgrades" they are adding.

I've spoken to a shop in Melbourne that I saw on the Forum. They indicated they are a ZF agent and quoted me $6400 for a re-manufactured gearbox from ZF (which includes a new mechatronics computer) and warranty. Alternatively, they said they can do an in-house rebuild for $4800 and re-use my machatronics computer.

Both the Canberra shop and the Melbourne shop indicate that the machatronics computers can fail, and a new one is not cheap (approx $4k) from ZF.

That suggests the $6400 re-manufactured gearbox from ZF agent in Melbourne is the best value, least long term risk.

Question 1. Does anyone know of a similar ZF agent in Sydney?

Question 2. Does anyone know anything about the occurrence of failed mechatronics units and cost of replacement? If its low risk, the $4800 in Melbourne looks good.

Question 3. Any views on "up-graded" trasnmissions as opposed to "re-manufactured" or "re-built"? I need to ask the Melbouirne agent if either the ZF re-manufactured or their re-built transmissions include "upgrades" to improve the durability going forward.

Cheers,
Al

Mine had bad shutters, worse when towing , I did a oil change and 2 tubes Dr tranny, no shutter now , even with the 3 ton boat and trailer, might be worth a shot

I know this has been mentioned before but here goes.
My D3s had the shudders.
My mechanic did the double flush.
Not fixed.
Put in Dr Tranny.
It's like a brand new gearbox.
No shudders.
No hesitation.

Thanks all for the tips.

But Dr Tranny is just a temporary fix (or can be used as a preventative). So plan on a new TC in the future - when who knows.

Originally Posted by garrycol

But Dr Tranny is just a temporary fix (or can be used as a preventative). So plan on a new TC in the future - when who knows.

How long can I expect from it.

Originally Posted by Maharba

How long can I expect from it.

How long is a piece of string. Some people report the issue comes back, some never report the issue again. Depends on the amount of damage already done.

In the new few weeks I am going to replace the gearbox sump etc - seems pretty well straight forward.

Everything I have read says to also replace the mechatronic sleeve as well. So I have the ford version sitting with the new parts for the gearbox.

So a couple of questions just to clarify things as the Topix workshop manual is light on detail.

1. Mine is not leaking and as I understand things does not need to be touched when doing the sump. So do I really need to replace it or just keep the new one for the future if mine does start to leak?

2. Now lets just assume for the moment that I do not replace it and in the future the electric cable does start to leak at the mechatronic sleeve. Now I have read that to replace the sleeve the sump has to be dropped but I am not sure why. The sleeve basically seals the cable against the gearbox housing at the rear (on one side). So if twisted out the cable should be unplugged from inside the box and pulled out through the hole. I would have thought fitting would be the reverse. So what am I missing here - why does the sump have to be dropped to change the mechatronic sleeve.

Also - any tricks for new players on this.

Thanks

Garry