Thread: D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

Originally Posted by wcody01

LR have now ordered a Ford branded box that is from all acounts a patch lead ie goes between the car plug and the trailer plug.
i've searched these style of box and found some up to $300 however the one they are proposing is $60 genuine??
any ideas on what the difference is?

Got the ford box
useless. I have no idea what it is meant to do but it did absolutely nothing that i could tell
have ordered a pulse busta

Hi All, I didn't read all posts in this thread but thought I would let you know my experience. I have a MY12 D4 HSE, I picked up a new Jayco camper trailer with LED lights from a dealer. When we tested the blinkers, brakes lights etc, all worked fine, but I explained to the bloke showing me that their should be a trailer light blinking on my dash. He immediately knew of the issue and wired in a couple of resistors, they had them on the shelf. Everything worked immediately and all has been fine in my travels with the camper trailer. So for me the resistors have worked and cost $30 for them.

Originally Posted by Stornoway SA

Thought I'd post that I was very impressed with Austals in Brisbane (LR dealer) who fitted both the Redarc remote BC and Autron dual battery display. Very good service. Photos attached (and in my gallery).

I'd like to mount my Redarc controls in this same spot. Can anyone give me some advice on how to get easy access to this trip panel that these switches are located on?

I have done heaps of these installations now & they seem to be easier the more you do & are now my preferred fit.
The light switch can be removed by dropping the lower section under the steering wheel as described earlier in this post.
The light switch itself is held in by 3 spring clips as you can see in the photo, then stick your arm/hand up to the switch & push in the top single tab, this will then let the switch pack pop out slightly & be able to be removed.

You will need to either cut carefully or die grind out the section on the r/h/s of the dash area, the bit that goes straight down as it needs to match the same as per the other side to give room for the LED & switch.

Cheers all.

Mr Sniegy, You are a true legend! That's exactly the help I was after.

Thanks

Originally Posted by sniegy

I have done heaps of these installations now & they seem to be easier the more you do & are now my preferred fit.
The light switch can be removed by dropping the lower section under the steering wheel as described earlier in this post.
The light switch itself is held in by 3 spring clips as you can see in the photo, then stick your arm/hand up to the switch & push in the top single tab, this will then let the switch pack pop out slightly & be able to be removed.

You will need to either cut carefully or die grind out the section on the r/h/s of the dash area, the bit that goes straight down as it needs to match the same as per the other side to give room for the LED & switch.

Cheers all.

Followed this thread to install my Brake contoller in RRS , certainly helped heaps and stopped a few tantrums " good work " !!! Al

Hi, wonder if some of the knowledgeable folks here might be able to help with this one. I have a MY12 Disco 4 3.0 HSE with a Prodigy P2 controller. Our LR dealer had wired the car for towing a van with LED lights. A couple of weeks ago I picked up our new van and towed home from the dealer. All worked fine, trailer indicator showed as the indicators flashed, all van lights and brakes worked OK.

ON Friday, hitched the van up for our Easter trip and checked van lights etc only to find trailer indicator did not display when indicators used. Tried disconnecting and reconnecting but no joy. However all lights on the van worked ok.

When we were underway I realised the trailer brakes weren't working properly - they would work fine sliding the manual lever on the Prodigy unit, but were not working when the brake pedal was pushed. I've checked everything that an untrained person like me can do. Nothing seems to have come loose since the first time we used it. Have checked all plugs are properly connected, have reconnected the van to the car several times and switched things on and off several times.

Can anybody suggest what the issue might be?

Thanks in advance.

Bump.

Anybody have any ideas?