Thread: D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

Originally Posted by NutoLR

(don't know why the quote split above - it was from the one post!)

Hi Sniegy,

I am about to install a Tekonsha P3 EBC in my MY09 RRS (2008 build) and have been studying your excellent instructions and posts (for both the D3 and D4) from as far back as Feb 2008, and also those questions/answers from all other members who have also contributed to this discussion. At this stage my concern is not so much about the wiring connections per se, but detail on how to best remove the various trim panels. May be I am not looking in the right places, but I haven't been able to find much on the forum that would help a lot .....

Although I’ll be following your 2008 instructions for my RRS, I will be varying it slightly to get power and earth for the EBC (Tekonsha P3) from the engine compartment via the much photographed grommet in the firewall, per your endorsement (above) for a D3/RRS installation . That will leave me just having to run 2 wires - the Red & Blue - from the EBC to behind the LH rear 1/4 panel.

However, in the few months only that I have owned my RRS I’ve had no need to remove any trim panels. So I am a little apprehensive because I don't want to damage the panels or to make the task more difficult and/or costly as a consequence of a ham-fisted approach. I intend to run the cables down the driver’s side via the sills per your instructions, and, as I want to be sure that I’m using the right procedures and/or tools/aids to do the job properly, I would appreciate advice on exactly how to remove these panels,specifically:

a) Panel under the steering wheel - you covered in several your previous posts - I assume its the same for the RRS?
Grab the top & swing out & down towards the ground, you will most likely send a clip flying, if you cant find it FYC500040.
b) Side panel adjacent to accelerator
Slides towards the rear of the vehicle.
c) Drivers side tread plate panel - what do your use to prise with?
I just use my fingers, but be gentle, if you lose the clips, you will spends hours trying to fish them out. again be patient! Again dont need to fully remove as you can work with it in situ.
d) B-pillar trim (I assume this is pillar on which the rear door hinges?) If so, the trim appears to be in 2 pieces, a quite short lower piece and a much longer upper piece which appears to overlap the former. How are both best removed?
This trim (lower) just pops off, peel the door seal away from either front or rear & stick your finger in between & it will literally pop off, you wont require the removal of the top one.
e) C-pillar trim (aft of back door?) From the front of the vehicle back to the C panel can see that the D3 and RRS are likely to be very similar (although I have never seen a D3 up close enough to judge for myself), but it seems to me that from the C-panel backwards that the instructions might differ from the D3 to the RRS ??
Yes the panel are quite different. If you wish to run a cable to the L/H/S (passenger) 1/4 area
You dont need to remove R/H/S as they are a pain, but a long coat hanger wire will come in handy. I start by removing the door seal at the rear of the rear passenger door, this will give you something to start with, now remove the small pocket from the loadspace area-panel on R/H/S in loadspace area, You will be able to poke the coathanger wire through to this point & then pass it under the lower section & across the rear of the vehicle to the L/H/S.
f) RHS big rear 1/4 panel. Where to start, etc?
Refer above.
g) Across rear (behind lift-up floor above the stowage area for towing parts and access to lower the spare)
Refer D4 fit out as i have photo's (D3/D4 & Spt are the same vehicle)
h) LHS big rear 1/4 panel, where I believe the connections need to be made.
This panel needs to be unclipped & held out of the way while you do the work. Its easier to only partially take out as it involves a lot of floor panels to be removed to fully remove this panel.
I would also like to install a 4-core video cable alongside the 2-core EBC wiring to the back LH 1/4 panel. Do you think there would sufficient vertical clearance between the top of the sill and the underside of the tread plates?
There is enough room to run extra cables, worse case scenario is lift carpet edge & run further into vehicle.
In addition - and down the track a bit - I also intend to install a second battery kit. Would it be appropriate – and would there be sufficient space – to lay the wiring for the auxiliary battery alongside as well? If it is, I’ll pre-wire this while I have the trims off for the EBC installation.
What do you intend on running? power supply for fridge i can take as a guess, anything else? If this is it, then run it once & store cable under bonnet area.
I know there a lot of questions here, but if others who have done this installation on an RRS, I'd be grateful for your comments also.

Cheers,
John ....

John,
Refer above in Red
Where abouts are you located?
Melbourne?
If so, maybe we could meet up & i could show you, the Sport is a little different to the Discovery & Panels need to be removed which can be scarry for some owners.
You will need to follow the instructions to the D3 section as this has instructions on how to modify the fuse block & this is the location you connect your blue wire.
Again DO NOT follow the D4 section.

Hope this helps in some way.
If you need more info. then ask away.
Cheers

Hi All
new to all this towing stuff and have to get elec brakes fitted for the horse float. Was towing an empty float with head lights on auto and went into a tunnel and the trailer brakes locked on up in 2 different tunnels. After the second I one realised what the cause was. Spoke to Gold Coast LR but thye had never heard of it before. Anyone with a similar misadventure.
From the pages that I have read it appears that most people are fitting and wiring their electric brakes themselves, yet I have spoken to a number of companies here on the GC and they all shudder. Is this why people are doing it themselves as it is so difficult to get right. I have a real problem as I am about as handy as mamary glands on a bull so I guess its off to GC Landrover and giving them my mortage. Anyone have an auto elec around these parts that can be recommended for this tricky business.
Thanks

Welcome Gazoom,
You arent the first & you definately wont be the last!

Refer either fitout for the compulsory 2nd park light wire to be cut.

Some of the other guys here live in your neck of the woods & someone will know of a good auto elec to help out.
Sorry i am too far away.

Cheers

Originally Posted by sniegy

John,
Refer above in Red
Where abouts are you located?
Melbourne?
If so, maybe we could meet up & i could show you, the Sport is a little different to the Discovery & Panels need to be removed which can be scarry for some owners.
You will need to follow the instructions to the D3 section as this has instructions on how to modify the fuse block & this is the location you connect your blue wire.
Again DO NOT follow the D4 section.

Hope this helps in some way.
If you need more info. then ask away.
Cheers

Hi Pete,

Thanks for your detailed response. Yes, it will help for sure.

I am pretty happy with your answers to my questions, and I am now fairly confident I can perform the installation.

However, in regard to the rear LHS panel, you mention that its easier to just partially remove it because of the floor panels, etc. Do you mean that it can be unclipped along the top, back and front edges and rotated into the boot,or does it open up access another way?

Further, can the terminations that need to be made in this area, be made by pulling that part of the wiring out from behind the pulled-back 1/4 panel, or must the wiring mods be made in situ in the space behind the panel where wiring lives?

Yes, I will be following the instructions for a D3 installation.

I live in Adelaide and while I get to Melbourne fairly often, I don't expect to be doing so this side of Christmas. But many thanks for your offer to meet up; it would have been good.

Cheers,
John ....

Hello Gazoom,

I purchased my D4 SDV6 from Bruce Lynton Land Rover on the Gold Coast.
I had them install a Brake Controller as part of the purchase because I had heard that there are a few tricks to getting it right and wanted a D4 ready to tow.
I have not found any faults with their install.

Very interesting to hear their response to what you described. After now owning the D4 for 12 months and reading information on this forum it appeared very obvious what would be the problem.

If you wish to have someone other than Bruce Lynton Land Rover to do the install I do not know of any Auto Electricians myself. But a friend had Brake Controller and Anderson Plug installed into his new 4WD and was happy with their work and they were a Mobile Operator from memory. If you wish their details just let myself know and I shall find out for you. I am at North Brisbane so he maybe or may not be interesting in work at the Gold Coast. You never know until you ask.

NTB

Originally Posted by NutoLR

Hi Pete,

Thanks for your detailed response. Yes, it will help for sure.

I am pretty happy with your answers to my questions, and I am now fairly confident I can perform the installation.

However, in regard to the rear LHS panel, you mention that its easier to just partially remove it because of the floor panels, etc. Do you mean that it can be unclipped along the top, back and front edges and rotated into the boot,or does it open up access another way?
Yes, Exactly, If you remove the Lower trim that runs across the bottom of the tail gate(goes around the tail gate latch) this just pulls up & on each end unclips from under a panel, if you take it slowly you will see what i mean.(p.s. it is flexible)
Remove the tail gate seal just along the area you need to work in, be careful the white goo stains! Also the panel that can be rotated into the vehicle just unclips, now it is only the lower section you need to unclip, when it all comes apart you can see where everything goes back, dont pull it too far as this also has the power outlet connected.

Further, can the terminations that need to be made in this area, be made by pulling that part of the wiring out from behind the pulled-back 1/4 panel, or must the wiring mods be made in situ in the space behind the panel where wiring lives?
Once you rotate the panel inwards you can do all the connections in that area. There is enough room & the connector is easily reached.
The lower fuse block is easy to lift out also, push tab inwards & lift upwards.

Yes, I will be following the instructions for a D3 installation.

I live in Adelaide and while I get to Melbourne fairly often, I don't expect to be doing so this side of Christmas. But many thanks for your offer to meet up; it would have been good.

Cheers,
John ....

Cheers & good luck.

Originally Posted by Dingo Charlie

I have a 2012 D4 3.0L And I tow a caravan and boat that both have Led lights. The lights on them would not pulse or flicker as previously stated with the d4 but I wanted the little green trailer icon on the dash and reverse beeps to disable. I used Led resistors from LED autolamps at $20 for a pair, wired them into the indicator circuits and one in the brake circuit for good luck. I then added a switch to turn these on or off. When turned on I get the trailer icon flashing on every indicator pulse and the reverse beeps are disabled. This was a very easy and inexpensive solution. I also use the tekonsha P3 as my brake controller and it is wired in a per previous posts....

Hi, any chance getting the detail of the Led lamps you got the resistor from? Much appreciated. You'd think that there would be a software fix for. Ie adjust the parameter needed to recognise a lower current draw from the blinker cct
Shane

Hi Sniegy
thanks for the run down and have booked it in to Lyntons for fitting in December. By chance have you had any issue with the factory fitted tow bar. You obviously tow alot and I am new to this but I have read some pretty horrific stories on various sites. It appears that the most talked about towing setup is a Mitchell Brothers tow bar. I can't imagine that LR would release a towing setup that is so dangerous, I wonder if it is something to do with the operator. One person with a Disco 3 told me a story of towing a horse float down a pretty steep hill and the brakes took control, slowed the vehicle down and then locked as they had got over heated. This has happened twice to her and they had to get police and heavy duty tow vehicles etc and took many hours to get sorted. From my lay person point of view I kinda think that maybe the float brakes weren't set to the correct engaging setting. Long thanks I know but I really like to jump my hurdles before I get to them especially when there is a ton of horse meat trying to get into the back seat.
Thanks again Gary